Nissan – importnut.net

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Part Numbers

importnut — Tue, 16 Jan 2018 18:30:10 +0000

As anyone who has tried to mix and match parts has discovered, trying to figure out Nissan’s part numbers and the variations between years and models is a serious exercise in frustration and futility. The intent of this post is to compile a list of parts numbers that is the product of several people’s efforts over quite a few years. Without question, if there is an error, or an update I need to make, please contact me and I will update the list.

A few people need to be acknowledged for helping me with this list:

McGuirk and Christ Stout from both Fresh Alloy and Zilvia
Nathan Rogut contacted me through my site
Hijacker from the MotoIQ site

Front Calipers:

(Numbers listed as RH caliper / LH caliper respectively)

41001-30P00 / 41011-30P00 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (N/A Aluminum 26mm)
41001-40P00 / 41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (Twin Turbo Aluminum 30mm)
41001-40P00 / 41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/90 – 9/91 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41001-45P00 / 41011-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 4/92 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 4/92 – 8/92 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 7/92 – 9/93 (TT Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 8/92 – 9/93 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P01 / 41011-37P01 Manufacture date 9/93 + (TT and N/A Cast Iron 30mm)

Brake Splash Shield (with the help of Nathan Rogut)

Front Splash Shields (30mm) which definitely fit S14, and I believe fit S13 as well.
41150-74F00 SPLASH SHIELD, FRONT RIGHT
41160-74F00 SPLASH SHIELD, FRONT LEFT

(Pictures provided by Nathan of the front splash shield fitment)

Rear Splash Shields – 300zx
44030-48P10 SPLASH SHIELD, REAR LEFT
44020-48P10 SPLASH SHIELD, REAR RIGHT

Brake Hardware Kit:

41080-40P25 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 2/89 – 8/89
41080-40P26 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 8/89 – 2/91
41080-40P27 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 2/91 +

Spring Return:

41090-50P01 N/A calipers manufacture 2/89 – 7/90
41090-40P01 Twin Turbo calipers manufacture 7/89 + (Alternate pt. 41090-40P02)
41090-40P01 N/A calipers manufacture 7/90 + (Alternate pt. 41090-40P02)

Rear Calipers:

44001-43P00 Manufacture date All (Turbo and N/A Aluminum or Iron Depending on year)
44011-43P00 Manufacture date All (Turbo and N/A Aluminum or Iron Depending on year)

Master Cylinders:

46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Tokico)
46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16″ NA Nabco non-ABS)
46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA TT Tokico)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1″ NA & TT Tokico)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up (1″ NA & TT Nabco)

240SX Front hubs for 5-lug conversion:

ABS equipped 240’s
40200-0V010 5/97-9/98
40200-0V010 5/97-9/98
40200-5L310 9/98+
40200-67F50 2/94-5/97
Non-ABS equipped 240’s
40200-0V210 5/97+
40200-65F50 2/94-5/97

Rear hubs for 5-lug conversion:

From the MotoIQ website, user Hijacker provided me with an updated list of rear hub part numbers.

NSK 43210-35F01 ———–> 02/89-03/90 VG30D (Auxiliary P/N 43210-AA000)
NTN 43210-32F06 ———–> 02/89-03/90 VG30D (I’m assuming these are from 2 separate manufacturers. The print out doesn’t specify side like it does from here out)

43280-30P05 —————–>09/93- VG30D RH
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 07/90-09/91 VG30D
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 09/91-09/93 VG30D
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 03/90-07/90 VG30D
43280-40P06 (43280-AA300) -> RH 09/91-09/93 VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 07/90-09/91 VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 09/93- VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 07/89-07/90 VG30DTT
43281-30P05 (43281-AA000) -> LH 09/93- VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 07/90-09/91 VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 09/91-09/93 VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 03/90-07/90 VG30D
43281-40P05 (43281-AA300) -> LH 09/91-09/93 VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 07/90-09/91 VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 09/93- VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 07/89-07/90 VG30DTT

Note from Hijacker regarding the parts list: This was the printout given to my from my parts guy. I was pricing out rear bearings to put on my NA Z32 rear hubs and we ran into the parts listing issue of which hubs are available, what’s the cost, etc. It looks like the 89-90 model years use the same bearing for each side, while the 90 and up models use the side specific bearings. The price was almost astronomically higher than the early model non-specific ones. Go figure, right?

If you’ve gotten this far, thanks for looking!

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

I grabbed the feature image background from wallpaperswide.com

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Justifying The Upgrade

importnut — Sat, 25 Apr 2015 00:00:43 +0000

Why do this swap? What are the benefits? The primary purpose is to improve the overall braking performance. This is accomplished by installing larger rotors and calipers. The Nissan Z32 300ZX provides the 240SX enthusiast an OEM option that is considerably less expensive than aftermarket kits. When I originally wrote about this brake swap in 2002, the only cost effective route was to buy used parts. Now we have sources like RockAuto.com that sells re-manufactured calipers at prices lower than used calipers cost over a decade ago. Other options available today include e-brake adapters, 5-lug conversion hubs, braided SS lines for the front and back to name a few.

This section will illustrate the physical difference between the original 240SX brake hardware and the 300ZX brake hardware and include my overall impression of the swap.

One thing to note, this swap can easily be completed on a 4-lug setup by ordering re-drilled rotors. Before you go out to buy parts, you need to decide which front calipers you would like to have, or which calipers you may already have. Here is information and pictures regarding the difference between calipers prepared by Asad Aboobaker:

The following is a comparison of some different Z32 300ZX brake calipers. The “26mm Aluminum” calipers were used ONLY on 1990 non-turbos. They used a 280mm x 26mm rotor. The “30mm Aluminum” calipers were used on 1990 Twin-turbos and ALL 1991-1992.5 300ZX’s (both turbo and non-turbo alike). They used a 280mm x 30mm rotor. The “30mm Iron” calipers were used on ALL 1992.5-1996 300ZX’s (both turbo and non-turbo alike). They also used the 280mm x 30mm rotor. Of course, the easiest way to tell aluminum from iron is to use a magnet, but I hope this helps some people trying to figure out what they’ve got/are getting if buying with just a picture for info.

Inside view of the three caliper options.

Rotor Gap in the 30mm Iron Caliper.

Note the different widths between the marked areas on the calipers as well as the overall width difference.

The rotor channel has the same width on the 30 mm aluminum and iron calipers however the iron caliper casting is narrower near the bridge bolts. The total width of the calipers (distance from the mounting ear to the outside face of the caliper) is the same for both the iron and aluminum 30 mm calipers.

Notice the well-defined small heatsink ridges on teh aluminum calipers and the “scalloped” out areas on the iron caliper. Again, note the width difference in the castings between the bridge bolts on the 30 mm calipers.

The casting in the region of the pistons of the aluminum calipers has the two “circles” connected in a sort of dog-bone shape. The iron caliper has two well-separated circles. Also notice the small “SUMITOMO” casting on the face of the aluminum calipers.

Note the “SUMITOMO” casting on the inboard side of the iron caliper as well as the aforementioned heat-sink ridges and casting differences in the piston region.

The aluminum calipers use a threaded steel insert pressed into the caliper for the caliper mounting bolts. The iron calipers are threaded directly into the casting. Also note the different shapes in the body of the caliper.

26 mm aluminum caliper rotor channel gap.

30 mm aluminum caliper rotor channel gap.

The front brakes start out as a 9.8″ vented rotor and single piston caliper. The 300ZX offers an 11″ rotor with a massive 4-piston caliper.

Outside comparison of front 240SX caliper vs 26mm 300ZX Caliper

Inside comparison of front 240SX caliper vs 26mm 300ZX Caliper

Stock 240SX Rotor compared to the 26 mm 300ZX rotor

26 mm caliper vs 30 mm caliper. It’s easy to see the difference between the two 300zx options. Ultimately, if weight is a factor, utilizing the aluminum 26 mm setup will save you a few lbs.

Badly abused stock 9.8″ front rotor

Front 11″ 300ZX rotor (same diameter for 26 mm and 30 mm rotors)

The rear brakes start out as a 10.2″ non vented rotor with a single piston caliper. Upgrading to the 300ZX equipment rewards you with an 11.6″ vented rotor with a separate drum e-brake and a 2 pistons caliper.

Inside comparison of rear 240SX caliper vs 300ZX

Outside comparison of rear 240SX caliper vs 300ZX

300ZX rear rotor

Roughly 11.6″ vs the stock 10.2″ rotor

Impressions

I can say, without a doubt, that the swap made a significant improvement in braking performance! I never had a chance to compare stock to swapped on a race track but it is clear that the swap provides the foundation that will provide as much braking as anyone would need. Pair this swap with a set of aggressive pads and the car will be ready for anything.

I also had a chance to experience the caliper and rotor upgrades prior to swapping the master cylinder. I didn’t have one ready when I did the first part. Using the stock 240SX master cylinder with the 300ZX brakes results in a very spongy pedal. The master cylinder upgrade resolved that issue and improved brake feel better than any other part of the swap.

The next section will cover the front brake installation. Click on the link below to see the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

Nissan 240SX 5-Lug Conversion

importnut — Fri, 24 Apr 2015 22:00:00 +0000

Whatever your justification for converting your 240SX to 5 lugs, whether it is to simplify a brake swap or expand wheel options for your S13, or S14 base model, you’ll need to know a few things. This section is intended to to be a brief outline of the parts necessary rather than a complete how-to. I included this section under my 300ZX brake swap series since it may be part of the entire project. Rotors drilled for 4-lub hubs are available if you want to skip this step.

Front conversion

Converting S14 240’s to 5 lug is as simple as locating 5-lug hubs from an SE 240, or buying new components from Nissan.

The conversion on S13’s is not as simple. If you want to follow the path of using all OE parts, you will need the following:

S14 upright
S14 ball joint. The ball joint is necessary for the reason that the shape of the S13 ball joint prevents it from working properly and creates a extremely unsafe vehicle to drive.
S14 hub/bearing

The alternative to doing all of this work, including trying to source out used components that are not damaged or worn is to use a 5-lug conversion hub.

Rear Conversion

When I swapped 300ZX brakes onto my 240, I used parts from a ’90 NA 300ZX. As far as I’m concerned, this is the black sheep of the Z32 when it comes to the rear hubs. What does this mean? The ’90 NA 300ZX used a hub that is identical to the one found on the 240SX. 1991-1996 300ZX’s used the hub that includes the tab for the e-brake mounting stud.

Picture lifted from Rockauto.com, This is the bearing and mount found on 240SX’s and the ’90 NA 300ZX.

Also lifted from RockAuto.com: This is the bearing and mount found on the ’90 turbo and all other 300ZX’s ’91-’96.

If you aren’t performing the 300ZX brake conversion, this part won’t matter. You will need the hub from an NA 300ZX. It has the correct axle spline size.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Master Cylinder Swap

importnut — Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:00:56 +0000

One of the more important aspects of the swap is upgrading the Master Cylinder. The pedal feel on the 240SX is weak with the stock brakes, but feels even worse with 12 pistons worth of brakes. In order to do the swap, all you will need is the master cylinder from a 300ZX. The proportioning between a turbo 300ZX and NA 300ZX is the same. If there is any concern, make sure to pick up the master cylinder that works with the calipers you are using. The brake booster is not necessary although it is a worthy addition.

There are a few different options from which to choose. Check out the parts listing page for the details. The 17/16″ MC with a manual trans equipped 240 brake booster can be a bit stiff. The manual trans equipped 240 has a smaller stock MC than an automatic equipped 240SX. The automatic equipped 240SX brake booster offers more assistance. Using the automatic’s booster along with either the 1″ or 17/16″ MC will offer the same advantages of a larger MC but with an easier pedal.

Another options is to swap the 300ZX booster along with the master cylinder. See the end of this write-up for details.

One of the questions that always comes up is the proportioning of the 300ZX MC vs the 240’s MC and the effect of using the 300ZX MC with stock 240 rear brakes. Below are a few excerpts from FreshAlloy members:

The way OE proportioning valves work is that the front and rear line pressures go up by the same amount until the pressure reaches the so-called “split point”. At this point, the rear pressure increases at a lower rate than the front pressure (with the proportionality factor given by the reducing ratio).

Now the reducing ratio for the Z32 and 240sx MC’s are the same (0.4), so the only difference is the split point. The Z32’s split point is lower than the 240sx, so above the split point, the Z32’s rear line pressure will always be lower than that of the 240sx.

What this is saying, is that there is no way the rear brakes are going to lock up first by swapping in a 300ZX MC while using Z32 front brakes and stock 240 brakes in the rear.

All that said, I chose the 1 1/16″ MC for my swap.

Parts Necessary

Master Cylinder
Brake Booster (optional, read below)
Brake Fluid

Tools Necessary

Jack and Jack Stands
Metric sockets and wrenches
10 mm Metric Flare Nut Wrench (optional but useful)
Allen Drives
Cutting tool (Dremel, air cutoff, etc)
Hammers and a small punch
Flaring tool

Please note, there are multiple combinations of parts that will give you the results for which you are looking. A brake booster from either a 300ZX or an automatic equipped 240SX will give more assist requiring less pedal effort. I have received emails from people that complained about the pedal effort being too high when using the 17/16″ MC. Using the smaller MC’s or bigger boosters will help reduce pedal effort while maintaining the better pedal feel of the upgrade.

Also, you may want to consider using a 15/16″ MC (if you had the 7/8″) for a mild improvement with no modifications necessary.

The 1 1/16″ Master Cylinder in all of its glory.

Original OEM Nissan parts were identified with a cast of the size. Unfortunately, this is not a consistent feature.

Take a moment and set up a funnel and drain pan to allow the master cylinder to drain. Remove the brake lines and allow the master cylinder to drain. Avoid spilling brake fluid on paint as it is highly corrosive. You may want to mark the lines front and rear to avoid any confusion through the project.

Remove the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the booster.

Regardless of whether or not you have ABS, the 300ZX master cylinder will work. If you do not have ABS, you will need to remove the plug from the second front brake line port as shown.

If you have ABS, you do not have to remove the plug. In that case, skip to the master cylinder installation.

Typically, a standard allen tool will be more than adequate to remove the plug. In some cases, it appears that re-manufactured master cylinders have a 5 sided allen plug or some non-standard variation. You will need to find a way to remove the plug possibly using an undersized 6-sided allen tool.

You will notice that the plugged hole is missing the proper flare fitting. You have two options to resolve this issue, the first is a rather simple fix. You will need to find a bubble flare tool to put a flare in the line that will work without the missing fitting.

I found this picture on a Jeep Wrangler forum that very clearly shows the difference between a bubble flare (left) vs a tapered flare (right).

The second option is to remove a fitting from the stock 240 MC and use it in the new MC. The fittings are pressed into the master cylinder and cannot be removed without destroyed the 240’s master cylinder. Use a cutting wheel to cut out the small fitting. Be careful not to cut into the fitting.

Take the fitting that you just pulled from the old master cylinder and carefully insert it into the 300ZX master cylinder.

Using a small punch, gently tap the fitting into the master cylinder. You may need to use sand paper to grind down the fitting to make it fit.

With the new fitting in place, it’s time to install the new master cylinder.

Before you install the master cylinder, take a moment to flush the reservoir with brake cleaner. This will not be necessary with a new master cylinder.

Place some grease in the hole of the master cylinder and install it on the 240’s booster.

With the 300ZX master cylinder in place on S14’s, you will notice that the brake lines are no where near the right locations. S13 brake lines will line up without any modifications. (S14 pictured)

You can carefully bend the lines to meet with the new locations (again, with ABS, you will only be using a front and rear line) Make sure you do not kink the lines.

With the lines bent, it’s time to thread them into the master cylinder.

With the lines installed, you need to take care of one last modification. You will need to attach the brake fluid level wiring to the new master cylinder. I salvaged the plug that was used on my master cylinder. You can also use standard female blade connectors to do the same task. I spliced the new plug onto the existing wiring.

Before adding any fluid, attach the plug and make sure that the brake light on the dash stays lit when the ignition is turned on. After adding fluid, make sure the light turns off.

If the master cylinder is the only modification you are doing, you will need to thoroughly bleed the brakes. Start by gravity bleeding the entire system, and then use your favorite method of bleeding to finish the job.

FYI: Gravity bleeding is the process of opening all of the bleeders and letting the fluid drain out. This is especially helpful when you’ve installed a new master cylinder.

Once the brakes are bled, top off the fluid, and attach the cap.

Note: Doriftomodachi from Zilvia.net discovered that is possible to swap the fluid reservoir from the original master cylinder. Swapping the reservoir allows you to use the original fluid level wiring without having to splice wiring.

During the intro I noted the option of swapping the 300ZX booster along with the master cylinder. I never had a chance to do it myself but I have spoken to those that have. Dave Coleman of Sport Compact Car and MotoIQ fame performed the swap on his project car.

Dave compares the 300ZX booster on the left to the stock 240SX booster on the right. The 300ZX booster has significantly more volume which provides greater assistance.

The only modification necessary is trimming the studs that attach the booster to the firewall. Use the length of the stock booster’s studs as reference.

The master cylinder swap isn’t a necessary component for a successful brake swap however the improvement in pedal feel and brake control is a worth while effort that ties all of the work together.

The next sections will cover the part numbers and brake swap alternatives. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – E-Brake

importnut — Thu, 16 Apr 2015 22:00:42 +0000

The e-brake conversion can be the most difficult element of the entire brake swap and requires more time and research to try and figure out the best solution. At the time of my swap, the only known option for S14’s was to splice the cables. Since then the S-chassis community has learned a few new tricks. I have outlined the most common solutions below.

Over the years, I’ve had quite a few people provide me with useful information that has made this page much more valuable than I would ever have hoped. The following, in one way or another, made contributions to the e-brake section:

Bart T. aka Hijacker from NICOclub
Kenny W.
TN from Nissansilvia.com
Carmo from NICOclub
Bobby
cvc9216 from Zilvia
cdlong from Freshalloy

Here’s what I have.

Parts Necessary

Complete e-brake hardware, hub and splash shield
- Refer to my part numbers page for model year variations
Cables
- For Splice: Z32 + Original 240SX
- S14 no splice: R33 GT-S
- S13 no splice: Z32 2+2 plus mounting bracket (more on this below)
Du-Bro #244 1/4″ Coated Brass Collars (at least 6)
8-32 Bolts approximately 1/2-3/4 long. Hex head preferred.
0.5″ insulated clamps, Summit Racing part number: SUM-G1882

Tools Necessary

Dremel tool w/ cutoff wheel
Tap and drill 6mm x 1.00
Locking Clamps (Vise Grips)
Socket set
Combination wrenches (box wrenches)

S13 No Splice

Long, long ago, we learned from Dave Coleman of Sport Compact Car fame that Z32 2+2 cables can reach the t-bar by rerouting them through the sub-frame. I can’t remember how he supported the front part of the cables however, many sources have confirmed that you still need a small bracket to secure the cable to the underside of the body. I found the picture below from NICOclub. I’m not sure if the original poster is still making these brackets. I did find similar examples of these on ebay.

The brackets have a small stud on top that prevents the brackets from moving. Picture source: NICOclub

S14/S15 No Splice

The R33 Solution. The Z32 2+2 cables work for the S13 however there is no way to make them work on S14’s. A few years after I finished my swap, the resourceful folks of the internet figured out that the R33 Skyline GT-S cables were a direct fit for the S14/S15 chassis. No modifications necessary. I only wish I had known about this before I went through the trouble of building my own! TN from Nissansilvia.com outlined the swap on his S15 and explained the cable installation in the picture below.

Picture Source: Nissansilvia.com

Search for “Buy R33 E-Brake Cables” and you’ll find what you need.

Splice

When I originally performed the swap in 2002, my idea was to splice the cables. There is one issue that is difficult to resolve. The cable needs to be supported on either end. If you look at the original setup, you will see that it is bolted to the body in the front and bolted to the caliper on the other. This is difficult to duplicate when you do a splice.

If you’re willing to give it a shot, read on!

For starters, I refer to this as the t-bar. The cables go from this to the rear wheel.

The best place for the splice is about 6″ away from the brake hub. I had originally tried to do the splice close to the t-bar. Under the car, here is no way to properly support the cables without creating a bracket. Not happy with that splice, I picked up another set of cables and worked on the splice outlined below.

I used model airplane wheel collars to tie the two lines together. You will need 1/4″ collars or something similar to it. If you use the Du-Bro collars, pick up 8-32 bolts; the set screws that are included are not long enough.

I used a combination of stock 240SX cables and stock Z32 300ZX cables. 2+2 cables are longer, but still not long enough for S14’s. Since you will be cutting the cables, it does not matter which you use.

You will need to cut all of the cables to length. I prefer a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to do the work. It will give you much cleaner cuts. For the Z32 section, cut the T-bar end, cable and all. This will allow you to pull the cable out of the tube.

Next, pull the cable out then cut the tube to length. I cut the rear section to approximately 6″. This allows the splice to sit over the control arms giving you relatively easy access.

For the front section, you will need to cut the rear section of the cable. Cut off the end, and pull out the cable as you did for the rear section. You will need to cut the tube to approximately 31″.

Once you finish cutting the tubes, you will need to slide the cables back in and cut them to length. You will want about 5-8″. You can leave more and cut them shorter once the splice is complete. Once you cut the cable to length, you will need to strip back the black plastic coating on the cable itself. Removing the coating is tedious, so be patient.

Once the tubes and cables are cut, attach them to the hubs.

The front portion of the cable will need to be attached to the sub frame. I’ve shown you the process with the sub frame removed, but it can be done without removing it.

In order to support the cables, you will need to use .5″ insulated clamps, Summit Racing part number: SUM-G1882. The sub frame already has a drilled and tapped hole that you will need to use to mount the cable. Since I had the sub frame out, I added a second pair of holes using a drill and tap. The tap size is 6mm x 1.00. The second pair of clams is not necessary.

If you plan to add an extra clamp, find a flat spot on the sub frame, drill and tap.

The extra clamp provides more piece of mind.

When installing the clamps and forward portion of the cables, do not completely tighten the clamps. You will need to adjust the length of the cables (especially if you have removed the sub frame).

Cable routing before the cables are attached to the t-bar.

Attach the cables to the t-bar. Install the sub frame (if you’ve removed it). Once everything is back in, you will need to tighten the clamps. The length of the cables and where you attach the clamps is more of a matter of feel than an exact measurement. You’ll be able to tell once you get in there.

Before you create the splice, you will need to completely loosen the adjustment screw on the e-brake handle. This is important in that it will help you get the last bit of slack out of the cables once everything is together. Make sure the e-brake handle is in the disengaged (down) position once you’ve back off the nut.

This is the hardest part. I had to go through this process twice before I really had the tension correct. You will need a few locking pliers, or Vise Grips, to do this. You have to get as much slack out of the cables as you can, then hold it while you do the splice.

Pull the slack out of the front cables and clamp the line. For the rear portion, you will need to relieve the slack in the cable as well as preload the brake shoes. This is done by feel. Pull on the cable until it stops, clamp the cable and then check to see if the rotor can move. If it cannot, then you are ready to move on (don’t worry, you will get some of the slack back once you remove all of the clamps).

The last part of the process is to slip on the original dust boots and then the collars, and pull the forward portion of the cable as tight as you can, and tighten at least one of the clamps. After that, tighten the rest of the clamps.

I want to add this again, slip on the rubber boots before you slip on the clamps!

This is what you should see once you’ve removed all of the pliers and what have you. You will probably need to tighten the adjustment on the e-brake handle as well as adjust the drum brake itself to get the rest of the slack out of the line. You may even need to come back and tighten the cables by the splice as I’ve already described once you’ve put a few miles on the setup.

At the end of the day, I’m glad to see that there is a solution for a functioning e-brake. Whichever you decide to use, know that it’s been done before. The next sections will cover the master cylinder swap. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

BUT WAIT! There’s more:

Dual Caliper Conversion!

While looking for sources of conversion parts, I stumbled upon a couple of unique solution for the e-brake. For normal use, the drum brake will do a fine job of keeping your car from moving. If you plan on drifting, you may need something more aggressive. Check out these kits below.

Silvermine Motors: Click on the image to go to their site.

Another dual caliper kit by GKtech Click on the image to go their site.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Rear Brake Swap

importnut — Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:00:42 +0000

The rear brake swap is not impossible, but it can be difficult. I wouldn’t try it unless you have some decent experience under your belt. The reason for this “disclaimer” is that it requires nearly the complete disassembly of the rear suspension. Some believe that this swap isn’t necessary to complete an effective brake upgrade on the 240SX, but I wanted to go all out as well as have a complete swap to write this series!

Parts Necessary

non-turbo Z32 e-brake/splash shield setup
non-turbo Z32 hub/bearing
calipers
rotors
R33 skyline GT-S e-brake cables (swap here)
SPL Parts or PDM Racing SS brake lines

Tools Necessary

Jack, Jack stands and Wheel Chocks
Metric Sockets and Wrenches
Flare Wrench (optional but handy)
12 mm x 1.25 pitch tap

Some people have been able to utilize the aluminum 300ZX upright, but it requires shocks with the correct lower mount. (SCC used JIC’s shocks with the aluminum uprights)

I’ve talked to many people regarding turbo vs non-turbo rear parts. Calipers and rotors are the same, however the e-brake hardware and hubs are different. The only year the hub was separate from the e-brake hardware was the non-turbo 1990. After that, the hub has the stud for the e-brake built in. In that case, you need to make sure to find non turbo hardware in order to get the correct axle splines. I always recommend, if possible, try to source all the parts from the same car. This will simplify parts compatibility.

Start by removing the calipers and the brake lines. For now, disconnect the e-brake hardware and move it aside. Then remove the rotor.

Remove all of the control arm bolts

You will need to pull out the axles.

Do so by removing the big nut on the end and sliding out the axle.

At this point, you need to remove the nut that holds the lower ball joint. Do this with a 22 mm socket. You may need a ball joint popping tool to remove the knuckle.

Once you have the knuckle out, you will need to change the backing plate. This is accomplished by removing the hub/bearing assembly.

As you will see, there is a large hole in the original knuckle. This hole is used by the e-brake/backing plate hardware. The chances of this working smoothly are pretty slim. The hole has probably corroded over time and needs to be cleaned. A dremel tool with a grinding bit should do the trick. If this doesn’t work then you can use the big nut and an impact gun to act as a press. Make sure the holes are lined up properly. If you get them off center, the rest of the hardware will not bolt on properly and it’s very difficult to pull apart. Alignment is much easier if you place the hub/bearing assembly in the middle and slowly thread it’s bolts in while you tighten the large nut for the e-brake hardware. Make sure all of the nuts and bolts are tight.

A collection of shots of the rear dust shield – ebrake hardware. Once the hub and upright are removed, you can see that there is quite a bit of hardware left that will be transferred to your original upright.

Although it is possible to install later, the e-brake lines of your choice should be attached to the new backing plate you just installed. This will create problems while manipulating the assembly, but not for too long. You can wait to install the caliper hardware until after the knuckle is on the car, or you can do it before hand.

Begin reinstalling the knuckle. First, you will need to pass the e-brake cable through the sub frame (if already installed). Let the cable rest on the sub frame for now. Next, attach the lower ball joint, slide the axel back into the bearing, and reattach the rest of the control arms. With everything in, you can install the rotors and calipers, if you haven’t already done so.

I would strongly suggest using some anti-seize on every bolt that you replace. It will make it easier to take apart in the future.

Once the upright is bolted into place, it’s probably a good idea to check all of the bolts…there are quite a few of them!

Since I had the stock 300ZX brake lines, I decided to make them work in this application. The calipers need the same fittings as those in the front. In order to utilize the stock hardware, it is necessary to modify the bracket that holds the brake line. I cut the bracket in half using a cutting wheel and then welded a 3″ section of sheet metal to each end. This gives you the extra 2″ necessary to allow the brake line enough slack to reach the hard line on the chassis.

Ideal, alternative setup:

PDM racing and SPL Parts offers rear conversion lines that will be much easier to install and require no fabrication!

Completed rear swap

The e-brake cable installation/swap is one of the least straight forward parts of this entire swap and deserves its own page. I cover cable splicing and refer to a few more desirable options.

With all of the brake components bolted in place, bleed the brakes or move on to the Master Cylinder installation. The next sections will cover the e-brake swap and master cylinder swap. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Front Brake Swap

importnut — Sat, 04 Apr 2015 22:00:03 +0000

The front brake swap is the easiest part of the entire project. The only parts involved in this swap are the front calipers, rotors and brake lines. If you are planning on doing a 5 lug conversion, make sure you have all of the components necessary prior to starting.

Parts Necessary

300ZX or Skyline Rotors
300ZX or Skyline Calipers
SPL parts or PDM racing SS brake lines

Tools Necessary

Jack, Jack stands and Wheel Chocks
Metric Sockets and Wrenches
Flare Wrench (optional but handy)
12 mm x 1.25 pitch tap
Cut-off Wheel (optional)

Start removing the brake hardware by pulling the caliper. This is done by removing the two bolts on the back side with a 19mm socket.

You will need to remove the brake line at this time. Disconnect the brake line at the chassis mounting point.

You will want to put a pan under the car to catch the oil that will be oozing out of the hard line on the chassis. Once you get the caliper out of the way, pull off the rotor. You may need to use a hammer to persuade the rotor to come off.

After you remove the original hardware, you will need to decide whether or not you want to keep the splash shield. The splash shield’s main purpose is to keep water away from the rotor. You don’t need this, so you can remove it. However, I chose to keep it. You will discover that the splash shield is too small for the new rotors.

I removed the outer edge using an air cutting tool.

Take a moment to spray some paint on the exposed metal of the splash shield.

If you removed the splash shield, slip on the new rotor. If you cut the outer edge, you will need to bend back the back plate to allow for proper clearance before you can go on with the rest of the installation.

Once the rotor is in place, you can install the calipers. If you look closely, you will see that both calipers are almost identical, except for the fact that he bleeder screw can be either on the top or on the bottom depending on which side you attach the caliper. Obviously, bleeding the brakes will be easier if the bleeder is on top. Arrange your calipers to make sure the bleeder is on top. I would suggest running a tap through the threads. A 12mm 1.25pitch tap is what you need. Also, using the same sized die would help with cleaning the threads on the bolts. Nissans like to hold on to their caliper bolts! Make sure to use plenty of anti-seize on the bolts when you reinsert them.

With the calipers in place, it’s time to attach the brake lines. You do not want to use the 240’s lines. People have used the stock banjo fitting with a shorter bolt, but it is not the right fitting for the 300ZX caliper. The 300ZX caliper does not have the tabs to hold the banjo fitting in place. Without the tabs, the banjo fitting can spin and loosen the bolt.

I was able to get the 300ZX’s stock lines and installed them for the sake of illustration. Note the bleeder location.

Using the 300ZX lines is a nice way to save some money, but I wanted to go with stainless steel lines. PDM offers stainless steel lines that will make the conversion easier and more effective than standard rubber lines. Installing either line is as simple as attaching one end to the caliper and the other to the hard line on the chassis.

When I did this swap in 2002, only the front lines were available.

Attach the line to the chassis hard line.

Attach the other end of the line to the caliper.

Use a zip tie to secure the line to the strut. Make sure the rubber sleeve is caught in the zip tie to avoid chaffing.

If you are only installing the front brakes, then bleed the brakes using your favorite bleeding method. If not, continue with the rear swap process.

The next part of the series will cover the installation of the rear brakes. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

Nissan 240SX KA Header Install

importnut — Wed, 04 Mar 2015 23:30:31 +0000

Installing an aftermarket header on your 240SX is an excellent way to free up a few extra horsepower. Using a header, along with an aftermarket exhaust and a high flow cat, are going to yield positive results! Installation is straight forward and should be easily accomplished with a few simple hand tools.

This install will work with any 240SX from ’89 to ’98 (non-turbo of course!)

Tools Necessary:

Reliable socket set
Metric wrenches
Jack and jack stands or ramps
Penetrating oil
Hammer
Propane gas torch (maybe)

Start by Raising the front of the car and securing it with jack stands.

Spray the cat bolts with penetrating oil. Hopefully, your catalytic converter bolts are no where near as nasty as my 216,000 mile, salt belt rusty bolts. (That little stud is what’s left of the bolt FYI)

Once the oil has had a chance to do its work, remove the two bolts that attach the cat to the down-pipe. In my case, breaking the bolt was my only option. Your situation may vary.

Next, remove the three bolts that attach the primary catalytic converter to the manifold. Two will be accessible from above…

…and one from below.

Once you remove the bolts, you can pull out the down pipe and primary cat.

Take a moment to unplug the O2 Sensor.

Remove the stock heat shield. There are several bolts along the top and near the primary catalytic converter. Getting this cover off will be tricky just be patient and avoid breaking anything.

With the shield off, you will need to remove The EGR tube located at the back of the manifold. It requires a 24mm box wrench in order to be removed.

Once the EGR tube is disconnected, you will need to remove all of the exhaust manifold bolts. Do not be alarmed if the stud comes out with the nut.

Once you have all of the nuts/bolts removed, the manifold should slide off.

With the manifold out of the way, you will need to clean off the original gasket material. I would take a moment and stuff the ports with paper towel so that you do not get any gasket material inside the engine. Use a flat razor, a gasket prepping tool or sandpaper to prep the surface for the new gasket.

Prepped and ready for the new header!

For my swap, I used an OBX header that I bought on eBay. It was $200 shipped. Other than hitting the bottom of the car, due to my Nismo mounts, it’s an excellent solid stainless steel manifold.

The header appears has much smoother bends and helps separate exhaust pulses.

Once you finish comparing the old with the new, carefully slide the header in from the top. It will be a tight fit, but with some effort, you will get it in. Slide on a new gasket, the header, and reinstall all of the manifold bolts.

Do not forget to reattach the EGR tube, and O2 sensors

Under the car, attach the new header to the lower cat and you’re ready to fire up the car and test for leaks.

As you can see, the new header looks great. Coupled with a new exhaust and catalytic converter, it made noticeable difference in power.

Enjoy!

A quick video of the header and nothing else:

Nissan 240SX Exhaust Install

importnut — Mon, 02 Mar 2015 23:30:47 +0000

Installing an exhaust can be a fairly simple operation…or one that may need some torching or other barbaric means to remove. A rusty bolt will usually turn into a broken bolt very quickly. This article focuses on the installation of a Greddy MX exhaust on a ’98 Nissan 240SX. Most of the details covered in this article will apply to any vehicle.

Tools Necessary:

Reliable socket set
Metric wrenches
Jack and jack stands or ramps
Penetrating oil
Hammer
Propane gas torch (maybe)

Start by raising and supporting the entire vehicle.

A lift is perfect, but not necessary.

Swapping the exhaust is a very easy task when it comes down to the details. However, a rusty bolt can turn a quick project into an ordeal. You may need to soak the bolts with penetrating oil to help with the operation. If the bolts will not budge, you may need to use a torch or have a shop remove them for you.

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the exhaust to the cat. In some cases you may need to remove the cat along with the exhaust to remove all of the bolts (not the case with the 240)

Spray some lubricant on the rubber hangers and then use a screwdriver or pry bar to remove all of the rubber hangers. You may need to support the system while you remove all of the hangers.

Drop the exhaust and take a moment to compare how much nicer the new system looks compared to the original exhaust.

I would venture to say that in nearly any case, the replacement exhaust is going to be more compact and weight less than the monster that came with the car!

Transfer the rubber hangers to the new exhaust. Depending on the vehicle, you may be able to assemble the exhaust on the ground (as with the 240) or you may need to assemble it a piece at a time. Either way, do not tighten the bolts until everything is in place. This will allow for proper fitment of the exhaust.

With the exhaust in place, tighten all of the bolts and make sure all of the hangers are attached.

Lower the vehicle and enjoy your new exhaust!

Installing Nismo’s Engine & Transmission mounts in the 240SX

importnut — Fri, 20 Feb 2015 23:00:04 +0000

Since the day I picked up my 240, I noticed the impact of the soggy, old, 180,000 mile engine mounts. Fresh original mounts would probably help but even those are a bit soggy. What are the effects of old engine mounts? Very spongy response from the engine. You may notice that you get a bog-snap take off that probably drives you crazy.

What’s the solution? You have at least two options. One is to use the same technique I outlined in my homemade engine mount write-up. Simply fill in all the gaps with the window weld. You could possibly do it with the mounts in the car if you really want to try.

Another option is Nismo’s engine mount upgrade for the 240SX equipped with the KA or SR engines. Rather than use polyurethane, Derlin or some other rigid material, Nismo likes to offer upgraded bushings with a higher durometer rubber. You’ll find Nismo versions of subframe, control arm, and other bushings for most Nissan offerings. Using the stiffer rubber allows for improved performance and control while maintaining some civility in the driving experience. Rock hard engine mounds can be annoying!

Here are the part numbers:

Engine mounts: 11220-RS540 and 11210-RS540, Transmission Mount: 11320-RS541

As you can see, the mounts look identical. I had contemplated filling the new mounts with window weld, but decided to wait and see how they felt compared to stock given the fact that new mounts are stiffer than the originals.

Don’t forget to order the transmission mount! Although not directly tied to engine movement, this mount sees forces from the driveline and compound the sponginess generated by the engine mounts.

The Install:

Start by raising and securing the front of the car.

I would suggest starting with the engine mounts. The driver’s side mount is easier to remove given the fact that there aren’t as many parts in the way. Here’s a shot of the driver’s side mount:

Remove both of the nuts.

With both nuts removed, move on to the passenger side mount.

The intake manifold and oil filter provide the extra challenge on the passenger side.

You’ll need to remove the oil filter on the passenger’s side to get better access to the mount. With the filter out of the way, remove all of the nuts on top of the mount.

You’ll need to find the nut located on the bottom of the mount. If you look between the steering rack (boot in picture) and the sub frame, you’ll see the nut. Remove both the nut from the passenger and driver’s side.

Raising the engine can be difficult. Use a jack and a section of 2×4 about a foot long, raise the engine by the alternator bracket for the right side and the AC bracket for the driver’s side. Raising the engine this way, will allow it to twist giving you more room to remove the mount.

Slide the old mount out and the new one in. Reattach all of the mounting hardware.

For the transmission mount, you’ll need to raise the back of the transmission using a jack.

Remove 4 bolts that secure the cross-member to the bottom of the car.

Then, remove both nuts that secure the cross-member to the transmission. Lower the cross member and set it aside.

You will also need to remove the nuts that secure the exhaust mount to the transmission mount.

With the cross-member out of the way, remove the two bolts that secure the mount to the transmission.

Bolt on the new mount and as always, the installation is the opposite of removal! You may find that the new mount will raise the transmission. Use the your jack to move it up while you bolt the cross member back into place.

Impressions:

The new mounts are MUCH stiffer than the original units. Vibration inside the car is minimal and the improvement is very noticeable. The new transmission mount moved the shifter up noticeably which was a nice surprise. Launching the car is much smoother whether you are accelerating casually or aggressively. Nearly all of the slop has vanished. You could take the time to fill the mounts and make them even stiffer, but I didn’t feel that it was necessary.

I’ve experienced a 240SX where the stock mounts were filled with window weld material. Vibrations in the interior were much more pronounced. It seems like the Nismo mounts were designed to avoid that problem and still offer a significant improvement.

This is definitely an upgrade I recommend!

In the end, if you need more, you can fill the gaps with poly urethane. Read about the process in my homemade engine mount page.