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ABS For All?

importnut — Sat, 05 Nov 2022 02:35:14 +0000

Note: This is a work in progress. I will update with more detail when I have time. Enjoy!

While researching potential ABS upgrade for my Civic, I discovered excellent solutions in the Honda S2000 and Acura RSX ABS units. What makes them ideal is that they are completely stand alone units both hydraulically and electrically. The computer is built into the unit and only requires power, brake signal and sensor wiring to connect. There is no connection to the ECU or other electronics and they do not perform any brake biasing.

With all of that in mind, I realized that Honda’s ABS units would be a great response to those building a project and thought, “It would be great if I could add ABS”.

HOMEWORK:

Several models’ service manuals were reviewed to determine which options were ideal!

Homework

My intent with this write-up is to provide you with a roadmap to incorporate ABS into your project. I will cover the electrical connections as well as the mechanical requirements to complete this project.

Main Features

When considering options for a painless upgrade, a standalone unit with external brake biasing, that doesn’t tie into other systems, was necessary. There is a small window of opportunity within Honda’s offerings that provides this true option. Options include early 2000’s AP1 Honda S2000, All years of the Acura RSX and Acura NSX R (Need years for reference, may be easier to find a unicorn).

If you can find the NSX-R unit, Track Midwest member, Amir Bentatou, points out that the difference with the NSX-R is how much slip it allows before activating and how intrusive it is. In terms of feel, the S2000 and dc5 RSX is obvious when it activates. The NSXR is much more subtle. It’s the difference between the primary purpose being safety vs performance.

Note: I hadn’t considered internal brake biasing when I first completed this project. It is a function that could simplify your project if you aren’t building something for the track or if you aren’t worried about adjusting bias.

Cross-link/X braking

Important to know for a couple of reasons. A safety feature found in Honda’s braking system is Cross-link, cross, or X braking. Meaning, one port on the Master Cylinder is for FL, RR and the other FR, LR. If you blow a brake line, you maintain one front and one rear brake.

To make this system work properly, the master cylinder must provide equal, and consistent pressure from both ports. Please see the hydraulic circuit diagram below.

Parts Necessary

ABS unit – Used parts from eBay have been selling for less than $50 shipped.
The original mount for the ABS Unit. These are often included with the pump and include vibration isolation.
Harness pigtail – this can be the trickier part of parts hunting. There are several Hondas that use very similar harnesses. Scour your local junkyard for opportunities.
Sensors and tone rings. (sensors resistance between 400-2000 ohms)
Proportioning valve
Wiring and tubing to complete connection

Below is a more elaborate diagram that shows the layout of the the hydraulic and electrical connections. Please note that the ABS unit itself is within the dotted line box. All other components are external.

Pump

I cannot speak for the programming differences between the modules. The note above suggests the NSX-R pump is more performance oriented. That aside, the main physical difference between the pumps is the size of the motor and the fact that the RSX pump uses bubble flare fittings vs the S2000’s tapered flare fittings.

RSX pump on the Left, S2000 on the right

Proportioning Valve

Without doing testing to measure the pressure drop of the Honda OEM prop valves, I can’t tell you which would be better for your application. For my project, I chose the RSX prop valve. A FWD prop valve for a FWD car. Consider an S2000 prop valve for rear wheel drive applications.

I do not know of an aftermarket solution that works with a Cross-link system. If adjustable brake biasing is needed, then two adjustable prop valves will be necessary.

Everything Else

For your application, are OEM sensor and tone ring options available. Is there aftermarket support for older cars that never had the option? The ABS control module has to see resistance within the range specified above to avoid a fault condition.

Electrical Connections

Before committing to installing the unit in my project, I bench tested to make sure the system would behave itself outside of the original installation. The system does not have CANBUS.

The complete electrical circuit diagram is provided below.

Key electrical connections:

Power from ignition
Fused power to the unit, 20 and 30 amp circuits
4 sensor connections
Indicator circuit (if you chose to use it)
Ground
Service connector – Used to jumper, read codes and reset the unit.
Data Link Connector if you want/can integrate into an OBDII system (not necessary)

Circuit Breakdown by pin:

Plan your wire routing accordingly ensuring enough slack to properly connect the unit.

Extra Credit

For OEM functionality in my Civic, I wanted the warning light to work properly. The circuit that drives the light is a normally “on” light when there is an issue with the unit. From the ABS unit, when all systems are good, the light circuit is “on”. I found a few variations of the circuit in service manuals. I picked the simplest and designed the circuit around it.

None of the component values were available. Through trial and error, I picked components and build the circuit. If you chose this path, keep in mind that the circuit is designed to drive an LED and not an incandescent bulb.

Wherever you chose to buy your components, assemble them on a PCB and wire it in.

Hydraulic

I’ll bring this up again, you have to operate this system with a master cylinder that produces equal pressure from each port. For my application, I chose to mount the proportioning valve to the unit itself. It greatly simplified the piping.

Installation

Chose a location that allows adequate access to run tubing and wiring. I suggest using the OEM bracket and fabricate mounts. Using the factory bracket as a starting point incorporates the OEM vibration dampening.

Run your tubing, bleed the system and get ready for a test drive!

V-Rod Saddle Bag Install

importnut — Fri, 29 Aug 2014 23:30:37 +0000

Installing saddlebags, passenger back-rest (sissy bar), or just about anything requiring the removal of the rear fender of your V-Rod. Although this write-up is based on my ’07 VSRCAW there should be no variations between the various models.

Tools Necessary

Metric and Standard sockets
Box wrenches
Metric allen wrenches or sockets

Verify that you have the proper mounting brackets for the components that are planning to install. Most of the parts sold by Harley Davidson need additional components for proper installation.

Start by lifting the main seat and removing the two indicated bolts in the picture.

Slide the strap off of the passenger seat.

Lift the front of the passenger seat and then slide the seat forward to release it. The rear seat catches on a post.

Here is the post.

This is the slot in the seat that fits over the post.

Also, the cable that stops the front seat will still be attached. Drape the rear seat over the side and out of the way.

With the rear seat out of the way, you will be able to see fuses and a computer. Remove the 6 indicated bolts to remove the rear fender. Move the wires and computer aside to access the bolts. (if you are not installing saddlebags, skip to the backrest, luggage rack, or seat section).

Disconnect the harness plug for the tail light.

To remove the rear fender, slide the fender back and the lift up to remove. You may need to maneuver it slightly to free it from the bike.

Attach the saddlebag brackets to the frame using the correct hardware.

Location of the the mounting holes from the inside.

Using an allen driver and box wrench, secure the bracket to the bike.

After installing the brackets, reinstall the fender. Pay attention to the wiring under the fender. There is a groove for the wiring. Remember to catch the lip on the back of the bike with the fender then slide it forward to line up the bolt holes. Attach the brake light wiring as well.

Back Rest, Luggage Rack, Optional Seats

If you are installing a back rest, luggage rack or any other optional parts, this is the time to do it. Again, if you are not installing saddlebags, you can skip the removal of the fender. You will still be required to remove the bolts that secure the fender to the bike.

Set the bracket for the additional hardware over the bolt holes for the rear fender.

Final Assembly

With the fender (and backrest bracket) in place, secure with 6 bolts from the bike or those included with the various kits. Do not forget to include the strap on the front two bolts.

Slide the seat through the hoop. Latch the seat onto the post and secure it with the nut and stud.

With the seat bolted in place, you can continue with the saddlebag mounting bracket.

Hold the bracket in place and attach it to the plates you installed earlier.

Now that mounting hardware is in place, it’s time to attach the saddle bags.

Finally, hang the bags on the mounting bracket and verify that they have clipped into place.

Regardless of the hardware being installed, the installation will be similar. If you are replacing the seat, or simply installing the back rest, follow the steps that outline those areas. With a set of simple hand tools, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars by avoiding the dealership.

Enjoy!

Mustang GT ZEX Wet Fogger Nitrous Kit Impression

importnut — Tue, 18 Feb 2014 02:46:59 +0000

(Originally Posted: March, 2005)

While installing K&N’s cold air intake we also installed ZEX’s wet fogger nitrous kit. I just wanted to write a quick impression about the kit to tell you what I thought about it and how difficult it was to install.

Overall, the kit wasn’t too difficult to install. Most of the difficulties arose while running the feed lines, wiring and doing the electrical work. The kit includes just about everything you’ll need to do the installation. Along with the nitrous kit, we installed ZEX’s purge valve kit. The purge kit included excellent hardware and a solenoid that was a bit much for the kit, but when is overkill a bad thing?

We spent more time finding a good spot to mount all of the hardware than we did actually doing the installation. Once we ran all of the lines and mounted the box, the installation went quickly.

It appears the that return-less fuel system on the ’04 has a smaller fuel line. The smaller fuel line would not accept the “T” included with the kit. We needed to go and pick up smaller fittings. With the new fittings, we were able to finish up the fuel setup. For your information, the correct wire for the throttle position sensor is the center wire in the harness.

In the end, we were really happy with the finished product. The control box does a great job of dispensing the goods. You have to program the box to let it know when the throttle is open 100%. This process takes about 15 seconds. Currently, we’ve only tried the 75hp shot and will try the 125hp shot as soon as we get the proper procedure for adjusting the ignition timing.

Even with the 75 shot, the power gain is awesome! If you are handy with tools, and want a quick power boost, this kit is excellent! My only beef is that the instructions do not help you with adjusting the ignition timing as well as leaving out some small details like the throttle position sensor wiring.

Have fun!