Honda – importnut.net

Honda Civic Budget Short shifter

importnut — Wed, 25 Feb 2015 23:30:49 +0000

Saving a few bucks on a performance upgrade is always a great idea as long as you aren’t buying cheap knock-offs or impacting safety or reliability. I managed to stumble upon this idea during a botched ebay transaction. You maybe thinking, “this doesn’t sound like a good idea. Why are you writing about it?” Stick with me for a moment and you’ll understand.

I had been running a B&M shifter on my Civic for quite a few years and I had grown weary of the corrosion issues that cause the sleeve to bind. I decided to switch to an OEM Integra shifter. I found one on ebay for a reasonable price and bought it. The problem I had with the shifter is that the bottom pivot had been cut, presumably to allow it to fit into stock Civic linkage. This detail was never mentioned in the description and the pictures hid the modification. After a brief dispute, I was able to return it and get a full refund.

The shifter was useless to me however I realized that it was worth pointing out the inexpensive factory like upgrade for Civics.

From top to bottom: B&M, OEM Integra, OEM Civic. The chromed OEM shifter came in later versions of the Integra. Earlier versions of the shifter were black. It’s clear that the B&M offers the greatest change in shift throw. The increased length below the fulcrum point along with the shorter length above generate a dramatically decreased throw. Comparing the Integra shifter to the Civic, although not as dramatic, you will notice that there would be a decreased throw with the Integra shifter.

A view from the side of each shifter shows the difference of where the shift knob will reside. B&M’s offering is nice, but you will be reaching further forward. This picture also shows more clearly the difference in the length below the fulcrum between the Civic and Integra.

The only difference in how the shifter is installed between the Civic and the Integra is the length of the tube on the bottom. Cutting this tube on the Integra shifter will allow it to fit in Civic shifter linkage. The shifter in this picture was cut correctly however I would never have cut and used the pivot sleeve in this condition.

The easiest way to cut down the tube is to use the original Civic shifter and mark off the section that need to be cut with a marker or masking tape. Then, use a band saw, hack saw, or reciprocating saw and do your best to keep the cut as square as possible. Use a file to clean off any burs.

I don’t have a picture of this modification with the proper sleeve, so I’ll have to use this as an illustration. Once the cut is complete and burs have been removed, transfer all of the hardware from the original shifter. The plastic inserts, metal sleeve with o-rings and dust seals.

With everything complete, the shifter is ready for installation.

If you need any help with installing the shifter, check out my short shifter install page.

Civic and Integra Short Shifter Install

importnut — Mon, 23 Feb 2015 23:30:37 +0000

One of the easier modifications you can do is install a short shifter. It is easily one of the single most obvious upgrades in that you’ll be using the shifter whether you are at the track or driving to work. There are many aftermarket shifters available. I chose the B&M shifter because it offers one of the shortest throws. Most of the alternatives are very similar in design and throw reduction. Stick with a brand you trust and you won’t have any problems.

Tools Necessary

Reliable socket set
Metric wrenches
Jack and jack stands
Screw driver
Vice Grips
1/4″ or 8mm punch

This process works for any Honda or Acura that uses a rod shifter. While doing this project, you may want to consider installing upgraded bushings for the linkage since everything will be easily accessible.

Start by raising and secure the entire vehicle.

Remove the shift knob.

Once the shift knob is off, you will need to remove the center console.

The only difference between installing a short shifter in a ’88 civic, ’95 civic, ’98 Integra, or a ’00 civic is the way the center console is removed. Usually, it is very self explanatory. After the console is removed, each rod shifter equipped Honda is the same. All of these pictures are from my ’94 Civic Si.

With the center console out of the way, pull back the weather seal.

Under the car, you need to remove the rear shifter mount. Remove the two bolts with a 12mm socket.

Up at the front, you need to remove the bolt that holds the front of the shifter rod with a 12mm box wrench. (Pictured: Civic D-Series linkage)

The B-Series linkage is slightly different. The process to remove it is the same. Remove the bolt and the linkage will slide off.

It’s easy to see why this is the best time to replace the linkage bushings. Energy Suspension bushings shown.

At this point, you need to determine if you want to completely remove the shift linkage from the car. It isn’t necessary, but it is easier if you pull it all out. If you do not want to remove all of the linkage, skip to removing the bolt that attaches the shifter to the shift rod.

First, pull back the rubber boot and pull off the silver retaining clip.

With the clip out of the way, use a 1/4″ punch (or an 8mm punch) to remove the pin that attaches the shift rod to the transmission. This is almost impossible without a punch. Make sure to have one on hand.

Whether or not you removed the linkage from the car, you will need to remove the bolt on the bottom of the shifter with 12mm wrenches.

With the bolt out, you will need to remove the shifter and the rod on which the shifter pivots.

Remove the two bolts that keep the shifter in place.

It will be necessary to use vice grips to hold the top of the bolts.

Once the bolts have been removed, slide the shifter out.

Pull off the pivot retainer then remove the rubber boot and enclosed pivot bushing (hiding inside the boot)

Lube up the new shifter and slide on the shifter pivot hardware. This is a pain, so be patient.

Reinstall the pivot retainer and bolts.

Bolt the new shifter and hardware to the shift linkage.

At this point, you need to slip the linkage and shifter back into the car (if you didn’t remove all of it) or attach the other shift rod to the bottom of the shifter.

In the case of B&M shifters, you need to use the supplied o-rings to fill the space shown below. When installing the B&M shifter in a Civic, use two large O-rings.

When installing the B&M Shifter into an Integra (Or B-Equipped Civic), Use all of the supplied o-rings as shown. You can lean the shifter slightly left or right depending on what order you install the o-rings.

Slip the shift linkage back into the car (if you took it all out) and attach the linkage to the output on the transmission and attach the shift linkage with the bushing to the side of the transmission.

The bolt the rear bushing to the chassis.

Inside the car, pull the weather seal over the hole in the chassis.

Replace the center console.

Install your shift knob of choice!

For the most part, installing a shifter is relatively straight forward. You may face rusty bolts which tend to plague salt belt cars. It may not be a bad idea to have fresh nuts and bolts for the shifter retaining plate or the hardware (Sleeve, o-rings, plastic inserts, and dust seals) for the lower pivot.

H22a Swap Guide

importnut — Thu, 23 Jan 2014 20:38:43 +0000

Most people know about swapping B16’s and B18’s into Civics. The B series swap is one of the most common Honda swaps. Most people are unaware of another easy, but not quite as common engine swap. The H22A Prelude engine swapped into an Accord. Why is this an easy swap? The fourth generation Prelude was well known for it’s Si and VTEC trims (H23a and H22a respectively) but the less common S trim was available with an F22 accord engine. If the Accord engine fit in the Prelude, then why not put a more desirable Prelude engine into the Accord?

Mechanically, it is a very easy swap. Electrically it is more difficult unless you can source a conversion harness. There are details that need to be covered, and I’ll just focus on them. Writing a how-to is more than I was willing to undertake for this write-up.

Research

While researching the swap, I discovered that the ’96, ’97-’99 H22a engine wiring harness plugs are different than those found on ’96 and up F22a plugs. This leaves you with two options: Modify the Accord harness to work with the new engine or find a conversion harness. The H22a swap is much less common due to the popularity of utilizing K-Series engines for swaps.

Engine Harness

Since I was dropping a ’93 H22a into a ’96 Accord, I had to modify the Accord harness. The ’96 Accord used crank triggering that is located by the crank rather than the inside the distributor. Careful cutting and splicing is necessary to reroute the wires to the distributor. The trigger function is the same on the crank as it is on in the distributor allowing you to use any OBDI ECU.

Note: We found that the relocated crank signal does not provide a clear enough signal to OBD II ECU’s resulting in multiple misfire codes. Keep this in mind when planning your swap. If an OBD II ECU is a must, you will need to convert your OBD I engine oil pump to the newer style that accepts the crank located crank trigger.

The Dirty Work

The most difficult part of this project was the wiring change from an OBDII Accord to an OBDI H22a. This chart will provide you with the info you need to do a similar swap. As you can see, there are many similarities between the OBDII Accord and OBDII H22a. The only additional wiring necessary for this swap would be the addition of a VTEC pressure switch wire, Knock sensor, and IAB solenoid.

Note: The chart can also be used to convert an OBDII Accord to an OBDII H22a

ECU PIN	'97 Prelude	'96 Accord	'93 Prelude
A1	INJ4	INJ4	a1
A2	INJ3	INJ3	a2
A3	INJ2	INJ2	a3
A4	INJ1	INJ1	a5
A5	SO2SHTC	SO2SHTC	x
A6	PO2SHTC	PO2SHTC	a6
A7	ESOL	ESOL	a11
A8	VTS	VTS	a4
A9	LG1	LG1	a26
A10	PG1	PG1	a23
A11	IGP1	IGP1	a25
A12	IACV	IACV	a9
A15	PCS	PCS	a20
A16	FLR	FLR	a7 a8
A17	ACC	ACC	a15
A18	MIL	MIL	a13
A19	ALTC	ALTC	a16
A20	ICM	ICM	a21 a22
A22	LG2	LG2	b2
A23	PG2	PG2	a24
A24	IGP2	IGP2	b1
A25	ICSOL	IARSOL	a19
A26	IABSOL	x	a17
A27	FANC	FANC	a12
A28	2WBS	2WBS	x
A29	VSV	VSV	x
ECU PIN	'97 Prelude	'96 Accord	'93 Prelude
C1	VREF
C2	CKPP	CKPP	b15
C3	TDCP	TDCP	b13
C4	CYPP	CYPP	b11
C5	ACS	ACS	b5
C6	STS	STS	b9
C7	SCS	SCS	d4
C8	K-LINE	K-LINE	x
C10	VBU	VBU	d1
C12	CKPM	CKPM	b16
C13	TDCM	TDCM	b14
C14	CYPM	CYPM	b12
C15	VTM	x	d6
C16	PSPSW	PSPSW	b8
C17	ALTF	ALTF	d9
C18	VSS	VSS	b10
ECU PIN	'97 Prelude	'96 Accord	'93 Prelude
D1	TPS	TPS	d11
D2	ECT	ECT	d13
D3	MAP	MAP	d17
D4	VCC1	VCC1	d19
D5	BKSW	BKSW	d2
D6	KS	x	d3
D7	PHO2S	PHO2S	d14
D8	IAT	IAT	d15
D9	EGRL	EGRL	d12
D10	VCC2	VCC2	d20
D11	SG2	SG2	d22
D12	SG1	SG1	d21
D13	x	SHO2SG	x
D14	SHO2S	SHO2S	x
D15	PTANK	PTANK	x
D16	EL	EL	d10

This is what it looks like to splice ECU Pigtails onto an OBD II harness. If you utilize the chart I created and mark off each wire spliced, this project can be completed with minimal issues.

Distributor Wiring

This table provides the wiring pairing to splice the distributor wiring. I only have the wiring mapped out for the H22a equipped with an internal ignition coil.

Sensor	OBDI wiring (prelude dist)	OBDII wiring (accord dist)
TDC	Orange/Blue	Green
	White/Blue	Red
CKP	Blue/Green	Blue
	Blue/Yellow	White
CYP	Orange	Yellow
	White	Black

This is exactly how I wired the distributor and it worked flawlessly. You may want to twist the wires and wrap them in tin foil to repair the shielded wiring that leads to the distributor.

The ’96 Prelude

This was the only 4th generation Prelude that had an OBDII engine computer. This makes the ’96 ECU a very desirable ECU for H22a swaps into OBD II Accords. In ’97, Honda incorporated a theft deterrent immobilizer system that makes using ’97-’99 ECU’s much more difficult.

Motor mounts

In order to drop in the H22a without hassles, it will be necessary to use the rear, passenger side and front accord engine mounts as well as the Prelude driver’s side mount. The other prelude mounts will NOT work. Also, you will need to grind down the driver’s side prelude mount to make it fit properly.

Grinding…

Air-conditioning

A little experimenting always goes a long way. You can retain your stock AC system as long as you use the accord AC bracket and compressor. The prelude AC mount will work if you want to try and use a prelude AC compressor. However, if you have a working system in your accord, there is no need to replace the components.

Main Crank Pulley

If you use the Accord AC compressor, you will definitely need to use the accord crank pulley. This makes it easier to buy belts.

Axles

You can use either Prelude or Accord axles and intermediate shaft. They are essentially the same. On the intermediate shaft side, you cannot mix Accord and Prelude parts. The connection is different between the two.

Cruise control

On the ’96 Accord that I worked with, the cruise control used a second cable that attached to the throttle body. Most Hondas run the second cable into the cabin where it attaches to the gas pedal. A set of Prelude pedals should take care of this problem. The other solution would be to use the Accord throttle body. This will give you a smaller throttle body so an aftermarket accord throttle body may be the answer.

Power Steering

The only success that we had with the power steering setup, was to splice the the accord line with the prelude line. You will need the original high pressure line from your car and most of the H22a line that came with the donor engine. Take the lines to a reputable shop that does high pressure lines. Use the complete line from the prelude along with the hard line from the accord (the hard line from the rack side). This setup worked flawlessly.

Immobilizer

’97-’01 Prelude ECU’s have the immobilizer function built-in and will either require you to rebuild the immobilizer function or have the computer modified. Your best bet is to try and find a ’96 Prelude ECU or convert to OBDI in the case of ’96 or newer Accords.

Civic Steering Rack Swap

importnut — Thu, 23 Jan 2014 00:00:58 +0000

(Originally Posted December 2004)

If you are into auto crossing, road racing, or would just like to have a more responsive civic, you need to swap in the Integra’s faster ratio steering rack. This article specifies the ’92-’95 Civic platform. This is the only platform that the ’94-’01 Integra steering rack will fit. There is no steering rack compatible with the ’96-’00 Civics.

If you want to swap the steering rack from your 4th gen civic, I believe the 2nd gen Integra rack will fit. Also, the 1st gen Integra rack will fit in the 3rd gen civic.

This operation is a bit involved, but with some patience, you will reap some fantastic benefits. The platform that benefits the most, is the hatchback. The shorter wheel base of the 5th gen hatch allows for quicker turn-in.

For an even faster steering ratio, the Integra Type R has the fasted rack!

Tools Necessary:

socket set
box wrenches
jack and stands
Ball joint popper
scrap 2×4’s

Parts Necessary:

Steering Rack
Every hose and line (Even if you have power steering, all of the lines are different)
Reservoir and mounting bracket (if you did not have power steering)
Power steering pump and correct mounting hardware
Integra weather seal
Integra steering universal joint

I’ve found that the easiest way to swap out the rack, is to drop the front sub frame. This sounds like a big project, but it really isn’t. This is the ONLY way you can swap the rack if you have a civic equipped with ABS.

As you can see. the pump doesn’t allow enough room to maneuver the rack if you don’t remove the sub frame.

I did the rack swap when I was doing my engine swap, but it is possible to do the work with the engine in the car.

Start by disassembling the coupler between the steering rack and the steering column. You will need to remove the black cover around the column. Once you remove the column, you will need to remove the two small bolts that clamp down the universal joint. Slide the universal out and move on to raising and securing the vehicle.

This is what you should see once you’ve removed the cover and the universal joint.

When raising the front of the vehicle, you will need to support it by using the front jack points.

After you remove the front wheels, you will need to use some form of ball joint popping tool to remove the tie rod ends and the lower ball joint.

Drop the exhaust and shift linkage as well as remove the header or exhaust manifold. You will need the clearance to remove the sub frame.

Using a jack and some scrap wood, support the sub frame while you remove all of the bolts. There are 6 huge bolts per side that need to be removed.

Once you have removed all of the bolts, the rack is free to come out of the car. If you already have power steering, you will need to remove the lines.

Even with the jack and the wood blocks, this process can be a shaky. You may want to consider another pair of hands to help guide the sub-frame down (and then back up).

With everything out, this ends up being a very easy project.

Once you have the sub frame out of the vehicle, you can swap the rack. If you are swapping to power steering from a non-power steering rack, you will notice that the sub frame doesn’t have the correct holes for the new bracket on the passenger side. If you enlarge or notch the holes on your original bracket, you can get it to work without any trouble. The other side is a bolt on affair. If you are going from a power steering rack to power steering, it is far more straight forward.

With the sub-frame on the ground, swapping out the rack is quite easy.

Comparing PS rack to PS rack they don’t seem that much different. The stock Civic rack is on top and the Integra rack, with new bushings, on bottom. If you look carefully, you can see how much larger the shaft is on the Integra rack.

Note: If you are converting to power steering you will need all of the lines that are equipped with the new rack. The Civic’s lines are different than the Integra’s lines. You can use the Integra lines on a civic PS pump if you have not swapped the engine.

This is also a great opportunity to install poly urethane bushing in place of the stock rubber bushings.

I can’t stress how much easier it is to swap the bushings with the rack out of the car.

Do the best that you can to center the steering rack before you slide everything back into place.

Slide the sub frame back onto the jack and scrap wood. Use the jack to raise the sub frame back into place.

Once the sub frame is bolted, along with all of the other reassembly, you can run the new power steering lines to the new reservoir. Reattach the ball joints and tie rod ends. Finally attach the coupler to the steering rack and steering column. You will probably need to center the steering wheel by trial and error. Understand that the universal joint can slide up the steering column shaft far enough to allow it to come off of the rack itself. This makes it easier to make fine adjustments to center the steering wheel.

Take the car out for an alignment and enjoy the benefits of the faster ratio rack!

Alternative process:

You can try to swap out the rack without dropping the sub frame. It is much more difficult on standard civics and impossible with ABS equipped civics. You will need to undo all of the lines and bolts from under the car. You will still need to drop the exhaust and shift linkage. Once everything is free, you can try to maneuver the rack out of the car. I’ve seen it done and it’s not pretty.

Importnut’s 2007 Honda Civic Si Coupe

importnut — Tue, 17 Sep 2013 01:08:06 +0000

After having a catastrophic engine failure in the hatchback…my wife and I decided that I needed a reliable everyday car. All my efforts to make my hatchback the dual duty track/work car were not well met. Not to worry, I have no intention of releasing my hatch from the stable…

Not sure what I would like, I set out to find a car to suit my needs. I drove an RX8, Mazda 6 v6 5spd, Mini Cooper S, Subaru Sti, Subaru Legacy, VW GTi, Audi A3 and probably some other cars that I have already forgotten.

When I drove the Si, I wasn’t necessarily blown away by the car. I would say that it fit right around the middle of the pack for driving experience. However, bang for the buck, the civic has hardware that most cars could only dream of that go for substantially more money. Also, insurance rates play against more intense cars like the STi, 350z, or even the WRX.

The equipment list includes a factory LSD, vehicle stability control and traction control, very fast 13.6:1 ratio electrically assisted steering rack, 11.8″ front brakes and an upgraded suspension. It even has cruise control! (take that evo!) The list of standard options on this civic reads like my typical wish list! Add to that Honda’s famous reliability, my decision was set.

Modifications:

JDM Red Stitched Shift Boot
Factory Fog Lights
2007, S2000 Horns
SPC Adjustable upper rear control arms
Hybrid Racing Clutch fluid line
2000 Civic Si clutch master cylinder
Skunk 2 Shifter Adapter
Goodridge braided SS brake lines
Hawk HPS Pads
ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid

The modifications that I’ve done over the years have been to improve driveability, safety and reliability.

Future Plans:

I don’t have anything really serious planned. Being my daily driver, I need to keep it as reliable as I can. Most of the modifications that would make a difference would either compromise reliability or drivability.

Rather than a list of potential future mods, I’ll just throw together a fantasy wish list!

Rotrex Supercharger
Honda ECU
Suspension goodies
Brake goodies

B-Series Cam Seal Install

importnut — Fri, 19 Jul 2013 13:58:00 +0000

A simple but common problem to most B-series Honda engines is an oil leak around the front cam seal. A simple and aesthetically pleasing solution is to replace the seal with an aftermarket aluminum seal. These cam seals are a machined aluminum piece which utilizes multiple rubber o-rings to create a seal. There are several brands available such as those at Password JDM, Skunk 2, Blox, Golden Eagle…to name a few.

A quick comparison between the original seal vs the aluminum upgrade. STR has long since gone out of business, but you can find similar seals through several other manufacturers.

Tools Necessary

Reliable socket set
Metric wrenches
Torque wrench
High temp sealant or Hondabond
A valve cover gasket set if necessary

The installation process is very easy. Start by removing the spark plug wire cover. After you’ve removed the cover, pull the plug wires out and lay them over the side. Remove the valve cover and set it aside.

Once the valve cover is out of the way, remove the oil rail that runs across the cam caps. There are 10 bolts that require a 12 mm socket and 2 that require a 10 mm socket.

Following the removal of the oil rail is the removal of the cam cap next to the VTEC Solenoid. There are two more 10 mm bolts that need to be removed. Carefully pry off the cap and the original seal.

With everything out of the way, it is time to prepare the new seal. Start by coating the rubber o-rings with oil. For added protection, add a bit of sealant to the inner edge of the back side of the new seal. I have skipped this step with no leakage issues.

When you put the seal in place, you’ll find that it is a tight fit. Don’t be alarmed.

Reinstall the cam cap and torque the bolts to 7 ft-lbs. Next, reinstall the oil rail and torque the 12 mm bolts to 20 ft-lbs and the 10 mm bolts to 7 ft-lbs. If necessary, install new a valve cover gasket and spark plug seals then install the valve cover, spark plug wires and spark plug cover.

Last but not least, thoroughly degrease the engine and enjoy leak free operation!

8th Gen (FG/FA) Honda Civic Short Shifter Adapter Install

importnut — Fri, 17 May 2013 18:23:03 +0000

Installing a short shifter has always been a modification that I considered a relatively simple and low cost upgrade you can enjoy on a regular basis. In my opinion, the 8th gen Civic has a decent shifter with an unusually long throw. The 8th gen Civic uses a unique shifter setup as compared to the shifters used by almost every other cable shifter equipped Honda. Until recently, there hasn’t been a great deal of aftermarket support. The most common upgrade is the shifter adapter.

I wasn’t looking for an aggressive improvement but I did want to tighten up the shift. If I understand correctly, the 2009-2011 Civics have an updated shifter that shortens the throw which leaves no room for the adapter. The only alternative is a complete replacement.

As much as I would love one of the full replacement options, I didn’t want to spend a great deal of money. I chose Skunk2’s adapter because the price was fair and they have earned a great reputation. Skunk2’s adapter is made for the 2006-2008 Civic Si.

Skunk2’s shifter adapter for the 2006-2008 Civic Si

Tools Necessary

14 mm open ended box wrench
Needle nose pliers
2 mm allen driver
Thread lock compound
Phillips screwdriver

When I did the install, I removed the entire center console. I realized that I only needed to remove the shifter bezel and top trim piece with the storage pocket. Removing it will improve access but isn’t necessary. I will illustrate the complete removal.

Before you start, block your wheels in case you release the parking brake or pull the shifter out of gear. A run-away car is never fun.

Using the 14 mm open ended box wrench, loosen the keeper nut on the bottom of the shifter.

With the shifter and nut out of the way, you can pop the bezel with your fingers

The top trim piece can also be removed by hand. Pull up and the clips will release. Keep an eye on the white clips. They can pop off and need to be reinstalled before you put everything back together.

If you are pulling the entire console, you will need to remove the two bolts in the arm rest storage bin

Remove the cover under the glove box

Remove the small clips on the passenger side of the console

Remove the small clips on the driver’s side of the console

Remove the two Phillips head screws located near the shifter

Unplug the small harness on the passenger side of the console

Finally, slide the console out of the way.

Before you remove the linkage from the shifter, put it in 3rd gear. This will allow for better access.

Use a small screw driver to pull the spring clip retainer off of the linkage.

Remove the pivot bushing with needle nose pliers by carefully prying it off

Prepare the adapter by putting a drop or two of thread locking compound on the threads of the allen screws. Start the screws and get ready to install it on the shifter

Installing the adapter onto the shifter does take a small amount of persuasion to make sure it is fully seated. Using the allen driver, tighten the two allen screws. Start with one until it makes contact with the shifter then tighten the other. Once both allen screws have made contact with the shifter, tighten both snugly.

At this point, you can start the reassembly process. Install the pivot bushing and the shift linkage. Make sure the wire retainer is properly seated

Slide the end of the shift cable onto the pivot bushing. Make sure the metal retainer clicks into place

Finish installing the center console, bezels and clips. Thread the shift knob retaining nut and shift knob and tighten the nut

The overall improvement isn’t significant, but it does make a difference in the feel of the shifter. I always felt that the throw was just a little too long and this install makes up the difference. For the money, I definitely recommend this upgrade!