In my special
tools section, I included a factory Honda tool that is used for
adjusting valve lash. In this page, I'll describe the use of the
tool as well as go over the proper procedure for adjusting the valve
- socket set
- 17mm box wrench
- Honda's Valve Adjusting tool (helpful on B-block VTEC's)
- Feeler gauge (.006" for the intake valve and .007" for the
exhaust valve on a B18C1)
Start by turning the front wheels to the left. This will give
you adequate clearance to reach the main crank bolt. Remove the
spark plug cover (B-block, H-block VTEC's) Pull the spark plug
wires and lay them aside. Remove the Breather tube from the valve
cover. It's the hose that attaches the intake tube. Remove all of
the bolts on the valve cover and gently pry the cover. If you use a
screwdriver, avoid scratching the surface of the head.
One step I like to include, is to remove the spark plugs. It
makes it easier to rotate the crank while you adjust the valves.
Once you have the plugs out, rotate the crank using a socket
wrench and a 19mm socket. Start by setting the crank at Top Dead
Center. It should be a white mark and or a notch on the crank
pulley. You are ready to do cylinder 1's valves (cylinder opposite
the distributor, or the cylinder the socket is poking out of in the
previous picture). Take the valve adjusting tool larger part and
slip it onto the valve lash bolt. At this time, you can slide the
"screwdriver" part of the tool in the larger part. Use the 17mm box
wrench to loosen the bolt.
Once the bolt is loose, slide the feeler gauge in-between the
rocker arm and cam lobe.
Once the feeler gauge is in place, turn the tool until the lash
gently pinches the feeler gauge. It should be snug, but if it's
stuck it's too tight.
Once you get the lash set, tighten the valve lash bolt with the
outer part of the tool while keeping the inner part of the tool from
moving (it's not as tricky as it may seem). Check the lash one more
time and move on to the next valve.
After cylinder 1 is complete, rotate the crank counterclockwise
until the cam has moved 1/4
of a turn. This will get you to cylinder 3, second from the
distributor. Repeat the valve lash adjustment until you have
complete all of the cylinders. Each 1/4 counterclockwise rotation of the
crank will get you to the next cylinder. The order is 1, 3, 4, 2
When you have completed all of the cylinders replace the valve
cover. Remember to put some high temp sealant on the corners of the
valve cover gasket where they go around the cam caps. Replace the
plug wires and plug wire cap.
Pretty easy huh?
For the sake of illustration, a shot of a non-VTEC d-series