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My First Engine Swap

importnut — Thu, 18 Jan 2018 23:30:52 +0000

Once upon a time, circa 2000, I set out to do what would be the biggest automotive project I had done to date. I swapped the engine in my Civic and it turned out well. These days, this engine swap isn’t a big deal however I want to share my adventure from concept to completion. When I started working on converting my site, I thought about rewriting this story to add my current experiences and recommendations. In the end, I decided to preserve my adventure in its entirety. Most of the shops and resources that I used are long gone and I’ve removed the links. If you’ve been at this game for a while, you my remember those long gone shops.

Looking back over this story, I realize how much I didn’t know then, and how much I’ve learned in the nearly 20 years since. I only had this Civic for about 2 years before I totaled it. The story lives on in the hatchback I bought shortly after and still have to this day! On with the story!

What can I say? I did it. Years of planning and dreaming of a swap have come to a very satisfactory end. This page will include my experience with the operation as well as some pointers and ideas if you chose to do the same or in the process of researching this project.

Dreaming Process
Research Process
Locating the Parts
Check is in the mail
Prepping the Civic
Prepping the Engine
Dropping in the new engine
Driving Impressions
The Next Step
A Year Later
Pictures from the swap as well as current pictures

Dreaming process….

It all begins with the thought of, “what can I do to seriously add power and enjoyment to my ride?” I had all sorts of crazy ideas floating through my head. Chips making 20hp, intakes producing 15hp, headers that give you a whopping 20-25hp!!!! Uh…okay. Most of us start off on the wrong foot. Believing everything in the magazines.
Once the painful truth emerged, I realized that to make some serious horsepower it was going to take more than an air filter and a cam to get what I wanted.

With that in mind, I looked into more elaborate modifications. Quite honestly, anything more than an intake or exhaust was going to kill me financially, so I decided to look for the option that would give me the most bang for the buck as well as future potential. I looked into turbos and superchargers, but when you look at the numbers, it doesn’t look good. With the stock bottom end on the original D16Z6 single overhead cam VTEC engine, it isn’t possible to
safely boost over 5-6 psi. With the Jackson Racing supercharger, the civic puts out roughly 145-150 hp. Having lined up to a JR SC equipped civic at the drag strip, I realized that the kit was a joke. Running a pathetic 15.6 in the quarter was enough to make me realize that building the stock engine, in any way, would be a waste. Turbos seemed to give better quarter mile times, but I was still not impressed.

What now? The answer is obvious. Engine Swap. The good guys at The Hybrid Garage provided enough information to first fuel the dream and then later pursue it. Which Engine do I want? There are so many to choose from. There’s the Integra RS/LS/GS 1.8L DOHC non-VTEC engine (B18B), the Integra GS-R 1.8l DOHC VTEC(B18C1), Integra Type R DOHC VTEC (B18C5), The Del Sol VTEC 1.6L DOHC VTEC (B16A3). For starters, any non-VTEC engines were pretty much out of the question. In a way, I didn’t feel like loosing the technology that I already had; that being VTEC. The concept of VTEC is awesome and the thought of loosing it seemed ludicrous. The Type R engine would have been awesome with it’s 195hp, tightly geared transmission, and LSD, but the thought of really digging into the wiring harness was a bit frightening. The same goes for any ’96 and up engine due to the emissions friendly OBD-II computers. It came down to the Integra GS-R engine and the Del Sol VTEC engine. For a while, I thought a 10 hp difference would be negligible. I was horribly wrong. Some people will argue that the B16A
engine is a better choice for a swap, however, the lack of low end torque makes it a bear to drive at times. On the other hand, the B18C1 develops very nice torque at the bottom. Although most of us would like to race “all the time” the reality of normal driving would dictate that nice low end torque is a necessity. In all honesty, having to drive the car like “you just stole it”, for normal driving can be rather tiresome.

That solves it. The Integra GS-R engine was the choice.

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Research Process…

Once I made the decision, it was time to determine exactly what I needed and what had to be done to make this work.

The nice thing about having the EX civic was that I already had most of the wiring necessary. The only wires that had to be added were the Intake Air Bypass wire and the Knock Sensor wire. Piece of cake!

In order for everything to work properly, I would need the engine, transmission, shift linkage, half shafts and intermediate shaft, and the ECU. To retain the stock AC compressor, I would also need the Del Sol VTEC AC bracket. To retain Power Steering, I would need the Integra power steering pump. I would also need to pick up the GS-R’s catalytic converter for the reason that the O2 sensor is mounted in the cat. The alternative would be to pick up a B16 Exhaust manifold.

In the process of doing research, I discovered a potential problem. My civic had factory ABS. This was an option that I requested when I originally ordered the car. The civic’s ABS pump was mounted low on the firewall on the passenger side. After having studied the B18C1 I realized that the intake manifold’s bizarre shape positioned the
throttle body in a bad spot with respect to the ABS pump. Not sure if it was going to be a “serious” issue, I pressed on.

**A note for anyone that may be doing a swap in the future, the ’96-’98 B18C1’s will work with the OBD-I computer. The engine was the same from ’94-’98. All you would need to do is pick up a ’94-’95 computer. The only disadvantage to using an OBD-II engine is the cost of picking up an OBD-I computer.

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Locating the parts…

I had contemplated trying to locate a Japanese version of the engine (JDM) The same engine in Japan produces a little more power than the US version. This is due to the higher compression pistons they use in Japan. I had read on several occasions that JDM engine suppliers have a very limited time to pull engines. This can lead to a rather messy engine in terms of wires or hoses that have been cut, rather than disconnected. Another issue, is that most JDM packages do not come with wiring harnesses, shift linkage and axles or even transmissions.

Back in 1997, I met an individual by the name of Jerome Soh over Honda Performance email list. At that time, Jerome was a small guy that sold a few parts over the internet. Over the past 3 years, I’d gotten to know that his service and commitment are matched by no one. Along with that, he developed a used Honda parts company called Sohfast Auto Parts, Inc. Jerome carries probably the most complete packages that you can buy. You do pay a little more for it, but he makes sure you are 100% satisfied. He earned my trust over the years by the little bits and pieces that I had ordered from him.

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Check is in the mail…

It was time to commit to the project. My original request was for a B18C1 with a Type R transmission, but there wasn’t one available at the time. Since I had already allotted the money for the transmission upgrade, I thought I would add a few more parts to the list. Along with the engine, I ordered an ACT 6-puck clutch, Xtreme pressure plate
and a Sohfast Lightened flywheel.

After I sent in the payment, I decided that some maintenance hardware was in order. The new engine had about 50,000 miles. As anyone would know, doing any maintenance to an engine is easier when it isn’t in the car. With that knowledge, I ordered a new water pump, front main seal, rear main seal, cam seals, timing belt, timing belt
tensioner and valve cover gasket. I also ordered a new distributor cap and rotor as well as plug wires.

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Prepping the Civic…

Obligatory “sitting in the engine compartment” picture.

I was forced to start the swap process earlier than I had planned due to a spun rod bearing.

At this time, I didn’t even have the donor engine in my possession. At any rate, I started the process by removing the old engine. I was rather amazed by how easy it is to disassemble a Honda. The wiring is so easy to remove. On the civic there are 3 harness plugs on the passenger side, and three on the driver’s side. Disconnect them and flop them over the engine. That’s it! A few hours later and the engine was hanging by two motor mounts.

With the engine out, I was able to work on the wiring. I discovered that it was easier to use the civic’s original EVAP purge wire for the IAB control. I swapped the EVAP purge wire for the IAB on the ECU plug harness and ran a new EVAP purge wire as well as the 12v wire to a 4th harness plug on the passenger side. You have to get this from the
integra harness. After that, add the knock sensor wire and the wiring is done. Mind you, this is in an EX civic. On any other trim, you may have to add more wires. Here are a couple of shots of the new wiring that I passed through the firewall.

Other than doing the wiring, there isn’t anything else that needs to be done.

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Prepping the engine…

After washing off nearly every molecule of dirt, I started to do the maintenance work on the B18C1. First off I replaced the water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, front main seal, and cam seals.

Another option I picked up was STR’s cam seal. A common problem with B-block Honda’s is an oil leak caused by the cam seal in front of the distributor. The seal becomes hard over time and cannot prevent oil from leaking out. STR’s solution is a machined aluminum version that utilizes O-rings. The installation was very easy and has not leaked a drop since I’ve installed it.

After procuring a clutch centering tool, I was able to install my new rear main seal, flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. With the tranny back on the engine, I reinstalled the Intermediate shaft as well as anything else that could be installed prior to installing the engine. With all of the maintenance work complete (see pics below), it was time to shoe-horn the engine into the civic.

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Dropping it in…

The installation went really well. I can honestly say that there were no real complications throughout the entire process. The only tricky step was getting the rear mount back onto the engine. After that, it was just a matter of plugging the harness together, attaching hoses, finishing up the motor mounts and adding fluids.

The ABS pump did pose a problem after dropping the engine in, but nothing serious. Some minor brake line and wire rerouting and everything was fine.

The only outside help that I needed was to take the car to an exhaust shop to have the exhaust lengthened. The exhaust manifold and cat combination was shorter than the original engine. Not a problem. Sounded pretty cool on the way to the shop.

One other important note that I think should be made is that the Civic’s stock radiator has smaller fittings than the GS-R’s. Temporarily, I’ve double clamped the hoses but I intend to either pick up an aftermarket radiator or a Del Sol VTEC’s radiator.

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Driving Impressions…

The first thing that I noticed with the new equipment, is that the throttle response is much better with the new lightweight flywheel as compared to a B18C1 with a stock flywheel. The 6-puck ACT clutch was a challenge to manipulate. Once on the road, the difference was immediately noticed. There is torque everywhere. Although it still
isn’t a great deal of torque, compared to the stock D16Z6, if feels great. After pushing it to redline, all I could do was grin. The tighter gear ratios are also readily apparent. The extra torque makes traffic maneuvers so much easier and requires so much less effort.

I’ve discovered that I can casually drive the car now. Before, I felt the need to beat the car in order to keep up with traffic or to get moving. Power shifting and redline were an everyday event. Now, I almost never power shift and 5-6k is the general limit for each gear for perky take off’s.

The ACT is a remarkable clutch offering very quick shifting when you need it. Grinding gears is pretty much a thing of the past…aside form driver error. However, it is a bit much for normal driving. It is very difficult to slip the clutch and take off smoothly. I’ve grown accustomed to technique necessary to use this clutch, but ever so often I botch my launch or let up on the clutch to quickly, resulting in a herky jerky shift.

Bottom line? I’m completely satisfied with the results of the swap.I would do it again in a heart beat!!

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The Next Step

I’ve already been asked the question as to what my next project is going to be. I’ve thought of what I want to do and come to this conclusion: I want to enjoy the car right now. The swap took a lot of energy and time. I would like to enjoy what the car has to offer now before I start digging into another big project.

However, here’s a list of things I’ve been considering:

I may swap in a more “user-friendly” clutch in the near future. I’m still debating whether or not to leave the 6-puck alone.

I need to do some suspension work before I really do anything else. My Tokico HP’s are loosing their effectiveness. Plus the shocks cannot compensate for the extra weight of the new engine. After shocks, I need to look into replacing a few bushings to try and tighten up the responsiveness of the car.

Once that’s out of the way, I’ve been toying with the idea of using the Honda CR-V’s engine block to make some intense low end torque. The CR-V’s B20 block is compatible with any B-block hardware available. What I would like to do with a B20Z block is send it out and have it prepped to work with my current cylinder head. Before I decide how I’m going to build the block, I need to determine if I want to go turbo later.

If I don’t choose to go turbo, in the future, I would like to raise the compression as high as I can while still using premium pump fuel.

If I choose to go turbo there are many other factors that need to be resolved before I can install a turbo.

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A Year Later…

After year of tinkering and tuning, I thought it would be a great idea to give my impressions after about 27,000 miles. First, I want to address the concerns and issues the I brought up in “The Next Step”

I nearly logged 14,000 miles on the ACT 6-puck clutch and decided that the aggressive nature of the clutch was too much for a daily driver. Driving to work in the morning with one eye open provided to be a very challenging task. I broke down and installed ACT’s Street disk and used the same pressure plate. Read about my impressions
here.

It didn’t take very long to realize that my Tokico’s just plain sucked! After a few autocrosses, I realized that I was running slower than I did with the old engine. Why? The car was too fast for the suspension to keep up. At first, I was very disappointed with the fact that a relatively stock DX hatchback could out run me. My first step was to replace the 80,000 mile Tokico HP’s (yeah, I think they had a lot to do with it!). I installed KYB AGX shocks. I could tell the difference immediately! I picked up the pace at the track but I was still not satisfied. I was still encountering nasty under steer. My next step was to replace the Bridgestone RE730’s with their S03 Pole Position tires mounted on Kosei K1 racing wheels. In the meantime, I added Z-10’s radius arm kit.

Armed with the new hardware, I headed out to see what I had accomplished. Much to my surprise, the car handled superbly. The combination of new shocks, tires, wheels, and radius arm kit proved to be a winner. I managed a spot as the 5th fastest out of 110 drivers on my first day out! Each race following that successful event was met with equal or better performance.

I’ve learned quite a bit about racing and my car this last season. The need for finesse and proper tuning became very obvious. What I find really interesting, is that I’m not done with my proposed handling modifications!

I also resolved the problem with the small radiator fittings using Fluidyne’s Civic radiator with larger Integra fittings. Read about it here.

Another modification that I feel needs to be mentioned is making cheap Poly Urethane motor mounts. Ben, my Nissan buddy, pointed out that you can buy different forms of Urethane that can be used to fill motor mounts in order to make them firmer. The newest trick was to use 3M’s window weld. Check out my how to and impressions
here.

On the topic of the B20 and the possible future of the B18C1: I don’t think I’ll go through the trouble to gain .1 l of displacement (B18C1 crank in a B20 block). Prior to picking up my 240SX, I felt that I wanted to build a turbo engine that started life out as a turbo engine. The SR20DET from the Silvia is a perfect candidate. That will be covered
in another article. I realized that I love the way the civic feels and sounds. I decided that any engine building will be strictly NA. I’ll probably go with some CTR pistons and cams, do a little work with the head and intake manifold and run a Hondata stage 4 ecu.

What do I think after a year of fun (and frustration)? I still couldn’t be happier with the car. I won’t publish my quarter mile time simply for the reason that I can’t nail down a good launch. I build this car to race on a track, not in a straight line and it shows. I will say that I managed to run better than 95 mph trap speed. That should be enough info to give you an idea of the potential!

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A few more pictures of the operation

Recent Pictures

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The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Part Numbers

importnut — Tue, 16 Jan 2018 18:30:10 +0000

As anyone who has tried to mix and match parts has discovered, trying to figure out Nissan’s part numbers and the variations between years and models is a serious exercise in frustration and futility. The intent of this post is to compile a list of parts numbers that is the product of several people’s efforts over quite a few years. Without question, if there is an error, or an update I need to make, please contact me and I will update the list.

A few people need to be acknowledged for helping me with this list:

McGuirk and Christ Stout from both Fresh Alloy and Zilvia
Nathan Rogut contacted me through my site
Hijacker from the MotoIQ site

Front Calipers:

(Numbers listed as RH caliper / LH caliper respectively)

41001-30P00 / 41011-30P00 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (N/A Aluminum 26mm)
41001-40P00 / 41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (Twin Turbo Aluminum 30mm)
41001-40P00 / 41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/90 – 9/91 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41001-45P00 / 41011-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 4/92 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 4/92 – 8/92 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 7/92 – 9/93 (TT Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P00 / 41011-37P00 Manufacture date 8/92 – 9/93 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41001-37P01 / 41011-37P01 Manufacture date 9/93 + (TT and N/A Cast Iron 30mm)

Brake Splash Shield (with the help of Nathan Rogut)

Front Splash Shields (30mm) which definitely fit S14, and I believe fit S13 as well.
41150-74F00 SPLASH SHIELD, FRONT RIGHT
41160-74F00 SPLASH SHIELD, FRONT LEFT

(Pictures provided by Nathan of the front splash shield fitment)

Rear Splash Shields – 300zx
44030-48P10 SPLASH SHIELD, REAR LEFT
44020-48P10 SPLASH SHIELD, REAR RIGHT

Brake Hardware Kit:

41080-40P25 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 2/89 – 8/89
41080-40P26 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 8/89 – 2/91
41080-40P27 Twin Turbo or N/A calipers manufacture 2/91 +

Spring Return:

41090-50P01 N/A calipers manufacture 2/89 – 7/90
41090-40P01 Twin Turbo calipers manufacture 7/89 + (Alternate pt. 41090-40P02)
41090-40P01 N/A calipers manufacture 7/90 + (Alternate pt. 41090-40P02)

Rear Calipers:

44001-43P00 Manufacture date All (Turbo and N/A Aluminum or Iron Depending on year)
44011-43P00 Manufacture date All (Turbo and N/A Aluminum or Iron Depending on year)

Master Cylinders:

46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Tokico)
46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16″ NA Nabco non-ABS)
46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA TT Tokico)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1″ NA & TT Tokico)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up (1″ NA & TT Nabco)

240SX Front hubs for 5-lug conversion:

ABS equipped 240’s
40200-0V010 5/97-9/98
40200-0V010 5/97-9/98
40200-5L310 9/98+
40200-67F50 2/94-5/97
Non-ABS equipped 240’s
40200-0V210 5/97+
40200-65F50 2/94-5/97

Rear hubs for 5-lug conversion:

From the MotoIQ website, user Hijacker provided me with an updated list of rear hub part numbers.

NSK 43210-35F01 ———–> 02/89-03/90 VG30D (Auxiliary P/N 43210-AA000)
NTN 43210-32F06 ———–> 02/89-03/90 VG30D (I’m assuming these are from 2 separate manufacturers. The print out doesn’t specify side like it does from here out)

43280-30P05 —————–>09/93- VG30D RH
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 07/90-09/91 VG30D
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 09/91-09/93 VG30D
43280-AA000 —————–> RH 03/90-07/90 VG30D
43280-40P06 (43280-AA300) -> RH 09/91-09/93 VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 07/90-09/91 VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 09/93- VG30DTT
43280-AA300 ——————> RH 07/89-07/90 VG30DTT
43281-30P05 (43281-AA000) -> LH 09/93- VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 07/90-09/91 VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 09/91-09/93 VG30D
43281-AA000 ——————> LH 03/90-07/90 VG30D
43281-40P05 (43281-AA300) -> LH 09/91-09/93 VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 07/90-09/91 VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 09/93- VG30DTT
43281-AA300 ——————> LH 07/89-07/90 VG30DTT

Note from Hijacker regarding the parts list: This was the printout given to my from my parts guy. I was pricing out rear bearings to put on my NA Z32 rear hubs and we ran into the parts listing issue of which hubs are available, what’s the cost, etc. It looks like the 89-90 model years use the same bearing for each side, while the 90 and up models use the side specific bearings. The price was almost astronomically higher than the early model non-specific ones. Go figure, right?

If you’ve gotten this far, thanks for looking!

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

I grabbed the feature image background from wallpaperswide.com

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Justifying The Upgrade

importnut — Sat, 25 Apr 2015 00:00:43 +0000

Why do this swap? What are the benefits? The primary purpose is to improve the overall braking performance. This is accomplished by installing larger rotors and calipers. The Nissan Z32 300ZX provides the 240SX enthusiast an OEM option that is considerably less expensive than aftermarket kits. When I originally wrote about this brake swap in 2002, the only cost effective route was to buy used parts. Now we have sources like RockAuto.com that sells re-manufactured calipers at prices lower than used calipers cost over a decade ago. Other options available today include e-brake adapters, 5-lug conversion hubs, braided SS lines for the front and back to name a few.

This section will illustrate the physical difference between the original 240SX brake hardware and the 300ZX brake hardware and include my overall impression of the swap.

One thing to note, this swap can easily be completed on a 4-lug setup by ordering re-drilled rotors. Before you go out to buy parts, you need to decide which front calipers you would like to have, or which calipers you may already have. Here is information and pictures regarding the difference between calipers prepared by Asad Aboobaker:

The following is a comparison of some different Z32 300ZX brake calipers. The “26mm Aluminum” calipers were used ONLY on 1990 non-turbos. They used a 280mm x 26mm rotor. The “30mm Aluminum” calipers were used on 1990 Twin-turbos and ALL 1991-1992.5 300ZX’s (both turbo and non-turbo alike). They used a 280mm x 30mm rotor. The “30mm Iron” calipers were used on ALL 1992.5-1996 300ZX’s (both turbo and non-turbo alike). They also used the 280mm x 30mm rotor. Of course, the easiest way to tell aluminum from iron is to use a magnet, but I hope this helps some people trying to figure out what they’ve got/are getting if buying with just a picture for info.

Inside view of the three caliper options.

Rotor Gap in the 30mm Iron Caliper.

Note the different widths between the marked areas on the calipers as well as the overall width difference.

The rotor channel has the same width on the 30 mm aluminum and iron calipers however the iron caliper casting is narrower near the bridge bolts. The total width of the calipers (distance from the mounting ear to the outside face of the caliper) is the same for both the iron and aluminum 30 mm calipers.

Notice the well-defined small heatsink ridges on teh aluminum calipers and the “scalloped” out areas on the iron caliper. Again, note the width difference in the castings between the bridge bolts on the 30 mm calipers.

The casting in the region of the pistons of the aluminum calipers has the two “circles” connected in a sort of dog-bone shape. The iron caliper has two well-separated circles. Also notice the small “SUMITOMO” casting on the face of the aluminum calipers.

Note the “SUMITOMO” casting on the inboard side of the iron caliper as well as the aforementioned heat-sink ridges and casting differences in the piston region.

The aluminum calipers use a threaded steel insert pressed into the caliper for the caliper mounting bolts. The iron calipers are threaded directly into the casting. Also note the different shapes in the body of the caliper.

26 mm aluminum caliper rotor channel gap.

30 mm aluminum caliper rotor channel gap.

The front brakes start out as a 9.8″ vented rotor and single piston caliper. The 300ZX offers an 11″ rotor with a massive 4-piston caliper.

Outside comparison of front 240SX caliper vs 26mm 300ZX Caliper

Inside comparison of front 240SX caliper vs 26mm 300ZX Caliper

Stock 240SX Rotor compared to the 26 mm 300ZX rotor

26 mm caliper vs 30 mm caliper. It’s easy to see the difference between the two 300zx options. Ultimately, if weight is a factor, utilizing the aluminum 26 mm setup will save you a few lbs.

Badly abused stock 9.8″ front rotor

Front 11″ 300ZX rotor (same diameter for 26 mm and 30 mm rotors)

The rear brakes start out as a 10.2″ non vented rotor with a single piston caliper. Upgrading to the 300ZX equipment rewards you with an 11.6″ vented rotor with a separate drum e-brake and a 2 pistons caliper.

Inside comparison of rear 240SX caliper vs 300ZX

Outside comparison of rear 240SX caliper vs 300ZX

300ZX rear rotor

Roughly 11.6″ vs the stock 10.2″ rotor

Impressions

I can say, without a doubt, that the swap made a significant improvement in braking performance! I never had a chance to compare stock to swapped on a race track but it is clear that the swap provides the foundation that will provide as much braking as anyone would need. Pair this swap with a set of aggressive pads and the car will be ready for anything.

I also had a chance to experience the caliper and rotor upgrades prior to swapping the master cylinder. I didn’t have one ready when I did the first part. Using the stock 240SX master cylinder with the 300ZX brakes results in a very spongy pedal. The master cylinder upgrade resolved that issue and improved brake feel better than any other part of the swap.

The next section will cover the front brake installation. Click on the link below to see the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

Nissan 240SX 5-Lug Conversion

importnut — Fri, 24 Apr 2015 22:00:00 +0000

Whatever your justification for converting your 240SX to 5 lugs, whether it is to simplify a brake swap or expand wheel options for your S13, or S14 base model, you’ll need to know a few things. This section is intended to to be a brief outline of the parts necessary rather than a complete how-to. I included this section under my 300ZX brake swap series since it may be part of the entire project. Rotors drilled for 4-lub hubs are available if you want to skip this step.

Front conversion

Converting S14 240’s to 5 lug is as simple as locating 5-lug hubs from an SE 240, or buying new components from Nissan.

The conversion on S13’s is not as simple. If you want to follow the path of using all OE parts, you will need the following:

S14 upright
S14 ball joint. The ball joint is necessary for the reason that the shape of the S13 ball joint prevents it from working properly and creates a extremely unsafe vehicle to drive.
S14 hub/bearing

The alternative to doing all of this work, including trying to source out used components that are not damaged or worn is to use a 5-lug conversion hub.

Rear Conversion

When I swapped 300ZX brakes onto my 240, I used parts from a ’90 NA 300ZX. As far as I’m concerned, this is the black sheep of the Z32 when it comes to the rear hubs. What does this mean? The ’90 NA 300ZX used a hub that is identical to the one found on the 240SX. 1991-1996 300ZX’s used the hub that includes the tab for the e-brake mounting stud.

Picture lifted from Rockauto.com, This is the bearing and mount found on 240SX’s and the ’90 NA 300ZX.

Also lifted from RockAuto.com: This is the bearing and mount found on the ’90 turbo and all other 300ZX’s ’91-’96.

If you aren’t performing the 300ZX brake conversion, this part won’t matter. You will need the hub from an NA 300ZX. It has the correct axle spline size.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Master Cylinder Swap

importnut — Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:00:56 +0000

One of the more important aspects of the swap is upgrading the Master Cylinder. The pedal feel on the 240SX is weak with the stock brakes, but feels even worse with 12 pistons worth of brakes. In order to do the swap, all you will need is the master cylinder from a 300ZX. The proportioning between a turbo 300ZX and NA 300ZX is the same. If there is any concern, make sure to pick up the master cylinder that works with the calipers you are using. The brake booster is not necessary although it is a worthy addition.

There are a few different options from which to choose. Check out the parts listing page for the details. The 17/16″ MC with a manual trans equipped 240 brake booster can be a bit stiff. The manual trans equipped 240 has a smaller stock MC than an automatic equipped 240SX. The automatic equipped 240SX brake booster offers more assistance. Using the automatic’s booster along with either the 1″ or 17/16″ MC will offer the same advantages of a larger MC but with an easier pedal.

Another options is to swap the 300ZX booster along with the master cylinder. See the end of this write-up for details.

One of the questions that always comes up is the proportioning of the 300ZX MC vs the 240’s MC and the effect of using the 300ZX MC with stock 240 rear brakes. Below are a few excerpts from FreshAlloy members:

The way OE proportioning valves work is that the front and rear line pressures go up by the same amount until the pressure reaches the so-called “split point”. At this point, the rear pressure increases at a lower rate than the front pressure (with the proportionality factor given by the reducing ratio).

Now the reducing ratio for the Z32 and 240sx MC’s are the same (0.4), so the only difference is the split point. The Z32’s split point is lower than the 240sx, so above the split point, the Z32’s rear line pressure will always be lower than that of the 240sx.

What this is saying, is that there is no way the rear brakes are going to lock up first by swapping in a 300ZX MC while using Z32 front brakes and stock 240 brakes in the rear.

All that said, I chose the 1 1/16″ MC for my swap.

Parts Necessary

Master Cylinder
Brake Booster (optional, read below)
Brake Fluid

Tools Necessary

Jack and Jack Stands
Metric sockets and wrenches
10 mm Metric Flare Nut Wrench (optional but useful)
Allen Drives
Cutting tool (Dremel, air cutoff, etc)
Hammers and a small punch
Flaring tool

Please note, there are multiple combinations of parts that will give you the results for which you are looking. A brake booster from either a 300ZX or an automatic equipped 240SX will give more assist requiring less pedal effort. I have received emails from people that complained about the pedal effort being too high when using the 17/16″ MC. Using the smaller MC’s or bigger boosters will help reduce pedal effort while maintaining the better pedal feel of the upgrade.

Also, you may want to consider using a 15/16″ MC (if you had the 7/8″) for a mild improvement with no modifications necessary.

The 1 1/16″ Master Cylinder in all of its glory.

Original OEM Nissan parts were identified with a cast of the size. Unfortunately, this is not a consistent feature.

Take a moment and set up a funnel and drain pan to allow the master cylinder to drain. Remove the brake lines and allow the master cylinder to drain. Avoid spilling brake fluid on paint as it is highly corrosive. You may want to mark the lines front and rear to avoid any confusion through the project.

Remove the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the booster.

Regardless of whether or not you have ABS, the 300ZX master cylinder will work. If you do not have ABS, you will need to remove the plug from the second front brake line port as shown.

If you have ABS, you do not have to remove the plug. In that case, skip to the master cylinder installation.

Typically, a standard allen tool will be more than adequate to remove the plug. In some cases, it appears that re-manufactured master cylinders have a 5 sided allen plug or some non-standard variation. You will need to find a way to remove the plug possibly using an undersized 6-sided allen tool.

You will notice that the plugged hole is missing the proper flare fitting. You have two options to resolve this issue, the first is a rather simple fix. You will need to find a bubble flare tool to put a flare in the line that will work without the missing fitting.

I found this picture on a Jeep Wrangler forum that very clearly shows the difference between a bubble flare (left) vs a tapered flare (right).

The second option is to remove a fitting from the stock 240 MC and use it in the new MC. The fittings are pressed into the master cylinder and cannot be removed without destroyed the 240’s master cylinder. Use a cutting wheel to cut out the small fitting. Be careful not to cut into the fitting.

Take the fitting that you just pulled from the old master cylinder and carefully insert it into the 300ZX master cylinder.

Using a small punch, gently tap the fitting into the master cylinder. You may need to use sand paper to grind down the fitting to make it fit.

With the new fitting in place, it’s time to install the new master cylinder.

Before you install the master cylinder, take a moment to flush the reservoir with brake cleaner. This will not be necessary with a new master cylinder.

Place some grease in the hole of the master cylinder and install it on the 240’s booster.

With the 300ZX master cylinder in place on S14’s, you will notice that the brake lines are no where near the right locations. S13 brake lines will line up without any modifications. (S14 pictured)

You can carefully bend the lines to meet with the new locations (again, with ABS, you will only be using a front and rear line) Make sure you do not kink the lines.

With the lines bent, it’s time to thread them into the master cylinder.

With the lines installed, you need to take care of one last modification. You will need to attach the brake fluid level wiring to the new master cylinder. I salvaged the plug that was used on my master cylinder. You can also use standard female blade connectors to do the same task. I spliced the new plug onto the existing wiring.

Before adding any fluid, attach the plug and make sure that the brake light on the dash stays lit when the ignition is turned on. After adding fluid, make sure the light turns off.

If the master cylinder is the only modification you are doing, you will need to thoroughly bleed the brakes. Start by gravity bleeding the entire system, and then use your favorite method of bleeding to finish the job.

FYI: Gravity bleeding is the process of opening all of the bleeders and letting the fluid drain out. This is especially helpful when you’ve installed a new master cylinder.

Once the brakes are bled, top off the fluid, and attach the cap.

Note: Doriftomodachi from Zilvia.net discovered that is possible to swap the fluid reservoir from the original master cylinder. Swapping the reservoir allows you to use the original fluid level wiring without having to splice wiring.

During the intro I noted the option of swapping the 300ZX booster along with the master cylinder. I never had a chance to do it myself but I have spoken to those that have. Dave Coleman of Sport Compact Car and MotoIQ fame performed the swap on his project car.

Dave compares the 300ZX booster on the left to the stock 240SX booster on the right. The 300ZX booster has significantly more volume which provides greater assistance.

The only modification necessary is trimming the studs that attach the booster to the firewall. Use the length of the stock booster’s studs as reference.

The master cylinder swap isn’t a necessary component for a successful brake swap however the improvement in pedal feel and brake control is a worth while effort that ties all of the work together.

The next sections will cover the part numbers and brake swap alternatives. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – E-Brake

importnut — Thu, 16 Apr 2015 22:00:42 +0000

The e-brake conversion can be the most difficult element of the entire brake swap and requires more time and research to try and figure out the best solution. At the time of my swap, the only known option for S14’s was to splice the cables. Since then the S-chassis community has learned a few new tricks. I have outlined the most common solutions below.

Over the years, I’ve had quite a few people provide me with useful information that has made this page much more valuable than I would ever have hoped. The following, in one way or another, made contributions to the e-brake section:

Bart T. aka Hijacker from NICOclub
Kenny W.
TN from Nissansilvia.com
Carmo from NICOclub
Bobby
cvc9216 from Zilvia
cdlong from Freshalloy

Here’s what I have.

Parts Necessary

Complete e-brake hardware, hub and splash shield
- Refer to my part numbers page for model year variations
Cables
- For Splice: Z32 + Original 240SX
- S14 no splice: R33 GT-S
- S13 no splice: Z32 2+2 plus mounting bracket (more on this below)
Du-Bro #244 1/4″ Coated Brass Collars (at least 6)
8-32 Bolts approximately 1/2-3/4 long. Hex head preferred.
0.5″ insulated clamps, Summit Racing part number: SUM-G1882

Tools Necessary

Dremel tool w/ cutoff wheel
Tap and drill 6mm x 1.00
Locking Clamps (Vise Grips)
Socket set
Combination wrenches (box wrenches)

S13 No Splice

Long, long ago, we learned from Dave Coleman of Sport Compact Car fame that Z32 2+2 cables can reach the t-bar by rerouting them through the sub-frame. I can’t remember how he supported the front part of the cables however, many sources have confirmed that you still need a small bracket to secure the cable to the underside of the body. I found the picture below from NICOclub. I’m not sure if the original poster is still making these brackets. I did find similar examples of these on ebay.

The brackets have a small stud on top that prevents the brackets from moving. Picture source: NICOclub

S14/S15 No Splice

The R33 Solution. The Z32 2+2 cables work for the S13 however there is no way to make them work on S14’s. A few years after I finished my swap, the resourceful folks of the internet figured out that the R33 Skyline GT-S cables were a direct fit for the S14/S15 chassis. No modifications necessary. I only wish I had known about this before I went through the trouble of building my own! TN from Nissansilvia.com outlined the swap on his S15 and explained the cable installation in the picture below.

Picture Source: Nissansilvia.com

Search for “Buy R33 E-Brake Cables” and you’ll find what you need.

Splice

When I originally performed the swap in 2002, my idea was to splice the cables. There is one issue that is difficult to resolve. The cable needs to be supported on either end. If you look at the original setup, you will see that it is bolted to the body in the front and bolted to the caliper on the other. This is difficult to duplicate when you do a splice.

If you’re willing to give it a shot, read on!

For starters, I refer to this as the t-bar. The cables go from this to the rear wheel.

The best place for the splice is about 6″ away from the brake hub. I had originally tried to do the splice close to the t-bar. Under the car, here is no way to properly support the cables without creating a bracket. Not happy with that splice, I picked up another set of cables and worked on the splice outlined below.

I used model airplane wheel collars to tie the two lines together. You will need 1/4″ collars or something similar to it. If you use the Du-Bro collars, pick up 8-32 bolts; the set screws that are included are not long enough.

I used a combination of stock 240SX cables and stock Z32 300ZX cables. 2+2 cables are longer, but still not long enough for S14’s. Since you will be cutting the cables, it does not matter which you use.

You will need to cut all of the cables to length. I prefer a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to do the work. It will give you much cleaner cuts. For the Z32 section, cut the T-bar end, cable and all. This will allow you to pull the cable out of the tube.

Next, pull the cable out then cut the tube to length. I cut the rear section to approximately 6″. This allows the splice to sit over the control arms giving you relatively easy access.

For the front section, you will need to cut the rear section of the cable. Cut off the end, and pull out the cable as you did for the rear section. You will need to cut the tube to approximately 31″.

Once you finish cutting the tubes, you will need to slide the cables back in and cut them to length. You will want about 5-8″. You can leave more and cut them shorter once the splice is complete. Once you cut the cable to length, you will need to strip back the black plastic coating on the cable itself. Removing the coating is tedious, so be patient.

Once the tubes and cables are cut, attach them to the hubs.

The front portion of the cable will need to be attached to the sub frame. I’ve shown you the process with the sub frame removed, but it can be done without removing it.

In order to support the cables, you will need to use .5″ insulated clamps, Summit Racing part number: SUM-G1882. The sub frame already has a drilled and tapped hole that you will need to use to mount the cable. Since I had the sub frame out, I added a second pair of holes using a drill and tap. The tap size is 6mm x 1.00. The second pair of clams is not necessary.

If you plan to add an extra clamp, find a flat spot on the sub frame, drill and tap.

The extra clamp provides more piece of mind.

When installing the clamps and forward portion of the cables, do not completely tighten the clamps. You will need to adjust the length of the cables (especially if you have removed the sub frame).

Cable routing before the cables are attached to the t-bar.

Attach the cables to the t-bar. Install the sub frame (if you’ve removed it). Once everything is back in, you will need to tighten the clamps. The length of the cables and where you attach the clamps is more of a matter of feel than an exact measurement. You’ll be able to tell once you get in there.

Before you create the splice, you will need to completely loosen the adjustment screw on the e-brake handle. This is important in that it will help you get the last bit of slack out of the cables once everything is together. Make sure the e-brake handle is in the disengaged (down) position once you’ve back off the nut.

This is the hardest part. I had to go through this process twice before I really had the tension correct. You will need a few locking pliers, or Vise Grips, to do this. You have to get as much slack out of the cables as you can, then hold it while you do the splice.

Pull the slack out of the front cables and clamp the line. For the rear portion, you will need to relieve the slack in the cable as well as preload the brake shoes. This is done by feel. Pull on the cable until it stops, clamp the cable and then check to see if the rotor can move. If it cannot, then you are ready to move on (don’t worry, you will get some of the slack back once you remove all of the clamps).

The last part of the process is to slip on the original dust boots and then the collars, and pull the forward portion of the cable as tight as you can, and tighten at least one of the clamps. After that, tighten the rest of the clamps.

I want to add this again, slip on the rubber boots before you slip on the clamps!

This is what you should see once you’ve removed all of the pliers and what have you. You will probably need to tighten the adjustment on the e-brake handle as well as adjust the drum brake itself to get the rest of the slack out of the line. You may even need to come back and tighten the cables by the splice as I’ve already described once you’ve put a few miles on the setup.

At the end of the day, I’m glad to see that there is a solution for a functioning e-brake. Whichever you decide to use, know that it’s been done before. The next sections will cover the master cylinder swap. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

BUT WAIT! There’s more:

Dual Caliper Conversion!

While looking for sources of conversion parts, I stumbled upon a couple of unique solution for the e-brake. For normal use, the drum brake will do a fine job of keeping your car from moving. If you plan on drifting, you may need something more aggressive. Check out these kits below.

Silvermine Motors: Click on the image to go to their site.

Another dual caliper kit by GKtech Click on the image to go their site.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Rear Brake Swap

importnut — Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:00:42 +0000

The rear brake swap is not impossible, but it can be difficult. I wouldn’t try it unless you have some decent experience under your belt. The reason for this “disclaimer” is that it requires nearly the complete disassembly of the rear suspension. Some believe that this swap isn’t necessary to complete an effective brake upgrade on the 240SX, but I wanted to go all out as well as have a complete swap to write this series!

Parts Necessary

non-turbo Z32 e-brake/splash shield setup
non-turbo Z32 hub/bearing
calipers
rotors
R33 skyline GT-S e-brake cables (swap here)
SPL Parts or PDM Racing SS brake lines

Tools Necessary

Jack, Jack stands and Wheel Chocks
Metric Sockets and Wrenches
Flare Wrench (optional but handy)
12 mm x 1.25 pitch tap

Some people have been able to utilize the aluminum 300ZX upright, but it requires shocks with the correct lower mount. (SCC used JIC’s shocks with the aluminum uprights)

I’ve talked to many people regarding turbo vs non-turbo rear parts. Calipers and rotors are the same, however the e-brake hardware and hubs are different. The only year the hub was separate from the e-brake hardware was the non-turbo 1990. After that, the hub has the stud for the e-brake built in. In that case, you need to make sure to find non turbo hardware in order to get the correct axle splines. I always recommend, if possible, try to source all the parts from the same car. This will simplify parts compatibility.

Start by removing the calipers and the brake lines. For now, disconnect the e-brake hardware and move it aside. Then remove the rotor.

Remove all of the control arm bolts

You will need to pull out the axles.

Do so by removing the big nut on the end and sliding out the axle.

At this point, you need to remove the nut that holds the lower ball joint. Do this with a 22 mm socket. You may need a ball joint popping tool to remove the knuckle.

Once you have the knuckle out, you will need to change the backing plate. This is accomplished by removing the hub/bearing assembly.

As you will see, there is a large hole in the original knuckle. This hole is used by the e-brake/backing plate hardware. The chances of this working smoothly are pretty slim. The hole has probably corroded over time and needs to be cleaned. A dremel tool with a grinding bit should do the trick. If this doesn’t work then you can use the big nut and an impact gun to act as a press. Make sure the holes are lined up properly. If you get them off center, the rest of the hardware will not bolt on properly and it’s very difficult to pull apart. Alignment is much easier if you place the hub/bearing assembly in the middle and slowly thread it’s bolts in while you tighten the large nut for the e-brake hardware. Make sure all of the nuts and bolts are tight.

A collection of shots of the rear dust shield – ebrake hardware. Once the hub and upright are removed, you can see that there is quite a bit of hardware left that will be transferred to your original upright.

Although it is possible to install later, the e-brake lines of your choice should be attached to the new backing plate you just installed. This will create problems while manipulating the assembly, but not for too long. You can wait to install the caliper hardware until after the knuckle is on the car, or you can do it before hand.

Begin reinstalling the knuckle. First, you will need to pass the e-brake cable through the sub frame (if already installed). Let the cable rest on the sub frame for now. Next, attach the lower ball joint, slide the axel back into the bearing, and reattach the rest of the control arms. With everything in, you can install the rotors and calipers, if you haven’t already done so.

I would strongly suggest using some anti-seize on every bolt that you replace. It will make it easier to take apart in the future.

Once the upright is bolted into place, it’s probably a good idea to check all of the bolts…there are quite a few of them!

Since I had the stock 300ZX brake lines, I decided to make them work in this application. The calipers need the same fittings as those in the front. In order to utilize the stock hardware, it is necessary to modify the bracket that holds the brake line. I cut the bracket in half using a cutting wheel and then welded a 3″ section of sheet metal to each end. This gives you the extra 2″ necessary to allow the brake line enough slack to reach the hard line on the chassis.

Ideal, alternative setup:

PDM racing and SPL Parts offers rear conversion lines that will be much easier to install and require no fabrication!

Completed rear swap

The e-brake cable installation/swap is one of the least straight forward parts of this entire swap and deserves its own page. I cover cable splicing and refer to a few more desirable options.

With all of the brake components bolted in place, bleed the brakes or move on to the Master Cylinder installation. The next sections will cover the e-brake swap and master cylinder swap. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap – Front Brake Swap

importnut — Sat, 04 Apr 2015 22:00:03 +0000

The front brake swap is the easiest part of the entire project. The only parts involved in this swap are the front calipers, rotors and brake lines. If you are planning on doing a 5 lug conversion, make sure you have all of the components necessary prior to starting.

Parts Necessary

300ZX or Skyline Rotors
300ZX or Skyline Calipers
SPL parts or PDM racing SS brake lines

Tools Necessary

Jack, Jack stands and Wheel Chocks
Metric Sockets and Wrenches
Flare Wrench (optional but handy)
12 mm x 1.25 pitch tap
Cut-off Wheel (optional)

Start removing the brake hardware by pulling the caliper. This is done by removing the two bolts on the back side with a 19mm socket.

You will need to remove the brake line at this time. Disconnect the brake line at the chassis mounting point.

You will want to put a pan under the car to catch the oil that will be oozing out of the hard line on the chassis. Once you get the caliper out of the way, pull off the rotor. You may need to use a hammer to persuade the rotor to come off.

After you remove the original hardware, you will need to decide whether or not you want to keep the splash shield. The splash shield’s main purpose is to keep water away from the rotor. You don’t need this, so you can remove it. However, I chose to keep it. You will discover that the splash shield is too small for the new rotors.

I removed the outer edge using an air cutting tool.

Take a moment to spray some paint on the exposed metal of the splash shield.

If you removed the splash shield, slip on the new rotor. If you cut the outer edge, you will need to bend back the back plate to allow for proper clearance before you can go on with the rest of the installation.

Once the rotor is in place, you can install the calipers. If you look closely, you will see that both calipers are almost identical, except for the fact that he bleeder screw can be either on the top or on the bottom depending on which side you attach the caliper. Obviously, bleeding the brakes will be easier if the bleeder is on top. Arrange your calipers to make sure the bleeder is on top. I would suggest running a tap through the threads. A 12mm 1.25pitch tap is what you need. Also, using the same sized die would help with cleaning the threads on the bolts. Nissans like to hold on to their caliper bolts! Make sure to use plenty of anti-seize on the bolts when you reinsert them.

With the calipers in place, it’s time to attach the brake lines. You do not want to use the 240’s lines. People have used the stock banjo fitting with a shorter bolt, but it is not the right fitting for the 300ZX caliper. The 300ZX caliper does not have the tabs to hold the banjo fitting in place. Without the tabs, the banjo fitting can spin and loosen the bolt.

I was able to get the 300ZX’s stock lines and installed them for the sake of illustration. Note the bleeder location.

Using the 300ZX lines is a nice way to save some money, but I wanted to go with stainless steel lines. PDM offers stainless steel lines that will make the conversion easier and more effective than standard rubber lines. Installing either line is as simple as attaching one end to the caliper and the other to the hard line on the chassis.

When I did this swap in 2002, only the front lines were available.

Attach the line to the chassis hard line.

Attach the other end of the line to the caliper.

Use a zip tie to secure the line to the strut. Make sure the rubber sleeve is caught in the zip tie to avoid chaffing.

If you are only installing the front brakes, then bleed the brakes using your favorite bleeding method. If not, continue with the rear swap process.

The next part of the series will cover the installation of the rear brakes. Click the link below for the complete series.

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap Series

Home Made Poly Urethane Engine Mounts

importnut — Thu, 11 Jul 2013 13:35:55 +0000

A common problem experienced in most cars involves soggy engine mounts whether or not you know it. This is a result of torn or damaged engine mounts or by mounts that are too soft (think liquid filled). This can lead to a few different issues. A simple problem, in the case of rod shifter manual transmissions and any rear wheel drive transmission, is excessive shifter movement.

Excessive engine movement may have a negative impact on performance. Power hopping, or wheel hop, is one of the main problems. Soft engine mounts can act like rubber bands during hard launches. When the engine shifts during a launch, it puts pressure on the mount before the torque heads to the wheels. Once the mounts are pushed to the limit the wheels begin turning. What can happen next is that the engine will bounce violently causing a little more power to hit the ground (from the energy stored in the bushings) and cause the car to hop.

Hopping leads to poor 60 ft ties, loose interior pieces will go flying and worst of all, drive train damage. A broken CV joint can really put a damper on your day! Add to the list of damage broken exhaust components as well as damage to engine bay or hood.

There are a few solutions available. Energy Suspension makes poly urethane engine mount inserts for many popular applications. HAsport makes solid poly urethane engine mounts for many Honda applications. Nismo also has mounts with stiffer than stock durometer rubber for several applications, to name a few. In the case of the Energy Suspension bushings, the cost isn’t very high but those on a tight budget may consider a less costly method. In some cases, where aftermarket mounts are not available, the following method is your only option.

Long ago, when I first swapped a B18C1 into my civic, my torque mounts were already very weak and showing signs of complete failure. The torque mounts help to reduce movement from torque as their name would suggest. Weak torque mounts will lead to excessive engine movement. I decided to try a trick that learned from a few Nissan guys that I knew. Do-it-yourself poly urethane engine mounts. I chose 3M window weld as it was the poly urethane of choice. It’s easy to find any any local auto parts store or online and can be dispensed easily without any mixing.

What you’ll need:

A tube of 3M’s window Weld #08609
Caulk gun found at any hardware store
Brake cleaner or some sort of cleaning solvent
Something flat and about an inch wide
Disposable rubber gloves
Any tools necessary to remove your mounts

I would strongly suggest the use of rubber gloves for this project. The window weld material is seemingly impossible to remove from your hands.

As you can see, my torque mounts were completely trashed. My thought was that I would only be wasting about $11 on the window weld if I didn’t like it. I needed new mounts anyway, so I gave it a shot.

One tube was more than enough to fill these mounts.

Before I started filling the mounts, I took a few minutes to clean them with brake cleaner. Any non-oil based cleaning solvent will work. I was concerned that I would struggle to fill the mounts considering the level of damage they sustained. In the end, it wasn’t a problem. Start by filling the open mount then use the window weld to hold the pieces together.

Start by filling the mount about half way. Do your best to avoid creating air pockets. One way to avoid this problem is to fill the mounts completely from one side. Since the window weld is very thick, you may struggle to get it all the way through.

If you didn’t fill it completely from one side, flip it over and finish adding material. I chose to add more material than necessary to make the mount thicker.

Once you are satisfied with the amount of material you’ve added it is time to smooth it out. This may only be a cosmetic issue, but i felt that it would help push the window weld into areas that may have been missed.

Continue working the material in and add more if necessary.

A few final touches…

One complete mount.

Once you are completely satisfied with your work set it aside and do not touch it for at least a day. I found that waiting a few days allows it to fully cure. However, 24 hours should be more than enough time to allow it to cure and reinstall.

The mounts in this picture were my first attempt. As of this writing, they have lasted more than a decade and look the same!

A shot of the other side of the mounts.

A shot of the mount installed on the passenger side.

A shot of the mount installed on the driver’s side.

Not all mounts are “circular” and open as those that I used for this write-up. Above is a Nissan 240SX/Silvia engine mount that has a sandwich style stack of plates and rubber. Window weld can still be used by filling in the gaps. The difference is still remarkable.

Final Impression:

I am thoroughly impressed with the effect of the torque mounts. In the case of my civic, there was significantly less shifter movement. Coupled with my Z-10 radius arms, I’ve eliminated wheel hop. Even in the most likely wheel hop situations I’ve experienced smooth and controlled wheel spin along with very solid acceleration.

Since I only modified two of the 5 mounts on my civic, there really isn’t that much more vibration inside the car. When it’s fairly cold out I do experience more buzzing interior trim but it’s only at idle.

I would suggest this modification to anyone interesting in a very low cost edge or to those that have no other engine mount option.

I would also like to add that I’ve been using these mounts for over a decade and they have been holding up very well.